2JZ non VVT-I Crank but no start!! Please help

xXSupramanXx

Drifter
Mar 12, 2008
149
0
0
Dayton
As title says my 89 Supra which has been aristo swapped will not start. The swap has been complete for about a year now (stock twins, 3" exhaust, IC/Hard pipes, stock boost etc.) and I have been daily driving it since.

A little over a week ago I was on my way home and I decided to get on the throttle a little. shortly after I hear what sounded like a backfire and my car shuts off. I attempt to fire it back up but was unsuccessful. I have my friend push me up the road with his vehicle to get out of the way of other motorists and doing so I decide to try and roll start my car. IT FIRES UP!! But I am unable to give it gas and the RPM's slowly drop until finally hitting zero and the car shuts off.

I later found that im not getting spark or fuel into the cylinders. I've spent this time testing the ignition/fuel components and have found that the crank sensor is out of spec in terms of resistance testing at 1,354 ohms (should be between 1,630-2,740 ohms). I purchased a new one from autozone for a 1994 toyota supra and still didnt fix the issue. i removed it and it tested lower than the original one at 1,134 ohms of resistance. Because if this I took it back and requested another one be ordered. I received the second one and this one tests at 1,122 ohms of resistance.

Upon further inspection of the crank sensors both original and reman, I see that they both have Toyota part numbers but the numbers are a little different. Original: 90919-05008 Reman: 90919-05006. Other than that the parts are identical.

I'm wondering if my issue may be the crank sensor purchased from the auto parts store or is it elsewhere. Any help would be appreciated guys!
 

f00g00

Supramania Contributor
Jul 2, 2007
586
0
16
Kuwait
The reading of your crank sensor is fine, the 95 TSRM says the reading should be:
Resistance:
Cold
NIPPONDENSO
835–1,400
AISAN
985–1,600
Hot
NIPPONDENSO
1,060–1,645
AISAN
1,265–1,890

The 90919-05006 crank sensor is the one (according to the parts breakdown) the one that came on the Aristo 2J.

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_199110_TOYOTA_ARISTO_JZS147-BEPVZ_1501.2.html?hl=15100Q

I would make sure the fuses are good like the EFI and all inputs to the ECU are fine. Also see if the timing belt is loose. And check if there are any codes.
 
Last edited:

xXSupramanXx

Drifter
Mar 12, 2008
149
0
0
Dayton
f00g00;1964410 said:
The reading of your crank sensor is fine, the 95 TSRM says the reading should be:
Resistance:
Cold
NIPPONDENSO
835–1,400
AISAN
985–1,600
Hot
NIPPONDENSO
1,060–1,645
AISAN
1,265–1,890

The 90919-05006 crank sensor is the one (according to the parts breakdown) the one that came on the Aristo 2J.

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_199110_TOYOTA_ARISTO_JZS147-BEPVZ_1501.2.html?hl=15100Q

I would make sure the fuses are good like the EFI and all inputs to the ECU are fine. Also see if the timing belt is loose. And check if there are any codes.

Thanks for the reply!

I kinda ruled out fuses since I'm not getting fuel or spark but I have check them and they all seem to be fine. I also checked the timing belt for tension and it is also fine. When searching for specs on resistance I came across this http://www.97supraturbo.com/1997 Service Manual/Ignition.pdf and that's what I was going by. Towards the top it shows that the resistance is supposed to be between 1,630-2,740 cold which has me a bit confused? Is this just an unreliable source if info?
 

f00g00

Supramania Contributor
Jul 2, 2007
586
0
16
Kuwait
That data is for a 97-98 2J and that part number is 90919-05037, unless your Aristo is from 08/1997 - 12/2004 you should use a 95TSRM.
 

nathaninwa

New Member
Jul 1, 2012
377
0
0
Aberdeen, WA
Couple things to check. With the sensor unplugged from the harness, hook your voltmeter up to the 2 sensor leads and use it on AC mode. Turn the motor over and youll see it cycle to about 1 volt ac if its working. You can do the same on the cam sensor but youll only get about a half volt ac since there is only 1 tooth.

If no voltage is present you need to make sure the toothed wheel is still attached to the crank gear. Pull the sensor and take a peek inside.
 

xXSupramanXx

Drifter
Mar 12, 2008
149
0
0
Dayton
nathaninwa;1964579 said:
Couple things to check. With the sensor unplugged from the harness, hook your voltmeter up to the 2 sensor leads and use it on AC mode. Turn the motor over and youll see it cycle to about 1 volt ac if its working. You can do the same on the cam sensor but youll only get about a half volt ac since there is only 1 tooth.

If no voltage is present you need to make sure the toothed wheel is still attached to the crank gear. Pull the sensor and take a peek inside.

Ok thanks. That's next on the list to check
 

xXSupramanXx

Drifter
Mar 12, 2008
149
0
0
Dayton
I checked the crank sensor and it is cycling to about 1 volt when cranking the motor so I'm guessing the toothed wheel is still attached. I tried tightening the plugs to the ecu since the bolt that holds it in is stripped and may have caused it to loosen over time and now when I crank it I get a few pops here and there and almost sounds like it wants to start occasionally but still doesn't. Does that sound like a wiring issue or ecu?
 

xXSupramanXx

Drifter
Mar 12, 2008
149
0
0
Dayton
When I tried to check codes before I got nothing . Not even 100% sure if its even working. When I manually turn the crank 360° the marks appear to be fine. Before engine was put in I replaced timing belt, tensioner etc. so I kinda ruled that out to
 

xXSupramanXx

Drifter
Mar 12, 2008
149
0
0
Dayton
The CEL worked prior to doing the swap but hasn't worked since.

I'm getting 12v to both the coils and injectors. It turns out that I'm getting fuel and spark but the spark is inconsistent. I noticed this when I pulled the plugs and put them into the coils and grounded them and had someone crank the engine. Not exactly sure what could cause this? I tried replacing one if the two cam sensors (one closest to firewall) and there was no difference.
 

f00g00

Supramania Contributor
Jul 2, 2007
586
0
16
Kuwait
A working CEL will tell where to look, fix that and you can narrow the problem down. You might also try a test light on W of the diagnostic connector which is tied to the CEL and read codes there.
 

xXSupramanXx

Drifter
Mar 12, 2008
149
0
0
Dayton
I totally forgot about this thread but the issue has been solved for some time now. It turned out to be that the crank trigger wheel separated from the timing gear preventing the crank sensor from reading properly.

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