2500 rpm break up

[kakanator]

So the other day my car would not start come to fine out the harness that goes by the egr pipe got melted and got code 14. I thought it was cps at first so i swapped the wires out with a different one on the same housing. I did not know what the air gap is or cant find it so that may be the problem. Also on the harness I rewired one of the knock sensor wires that was burnt. I did not shield that part I cut away to get to the signal wire could the brake up be that or maybe my solder job on that wire was bad? If i throttle pass 2500 I drives fine and will boost great. Also has a lope idle. I'm going to try and find more about the cps air gap tomorrow. Also at the time my wideband was reading passed 18 and would only get my numbers once I hit boost witch was 11.1 wot.

 

[atmperformance]

as someone who does wiring and likes sloths i respect this.

 

[kakanator]

haha thanks but I am stuck on what the prob is no cel or anything and she boost fine past 2500.

 

[Rollus]

I would look at the TPS Idle signal.

 

[hvyman]

might have to rewire the cps wires with some new shielded wire if they got affected

 

[kakanator]

Found the cps air gap online its spos to be 0.08 to 0.016 and the gap on mine was 2 credit car thick. I gaped it down to .08 and then went for a ride no more brake up no more idle problems.

 

[kakanator]

At first that's what i was thinking and rewire the knocks. That would suck to right after I did all that patch wiring but we will see how it dose for now.

 

[kakanator]

Ok so i was wrong after i went back outside to leave it started doing the same thing. So I swapped out cps for a what looks good one. Also swapped out tps and still the same thing. So I need to check my vvti coil next and plugs. But any help would be nice.

 

[jetjock]

It's "break". Hope that helps...

 

[kakanator]

so today I was working on the harness again. Got all stripped down and got some rg58 type wire to rewire the knocks sensors wires. Did that made a new ground for them put the harness back in the car and it drove fine. I went to get some carbclean to check for vacuum leaks. Came out and the car would just crank and die. Looked over everything and found nothing blow or cut or rubbing on anything. My fried said give it a little gas when you start it so i did. I ran but only on like 3 cylinders from what it sounds like so I had him hold the gas down and I started pulling spark wires and nothing changed. The wires sparked just fine. So i pulled injector clips and number 2 made the car stumble and also number 6. But no others did. I put a screw driver on the injector body and all 6 worked fine.


https://youtu.be/1hWiPprIhuk

Also the code I have is 51 witch tsrm said ac switch.

 

[hvyman]

Check the resistor box.

 

[kakanator]

Ill look on tsrm for the steps.

 

[kakanator]

well long day I got a chance to test some more things and still the same. I checked to see if the coils are getting 12v with key on and there are. Then I swapped out afm with a know working one and still the same. Also had a friend bring a known working ecu and no change. Only thing I can thing of is I made the harness worse and fully fucked it or the ignitor is bad. I will test that next. I tried to follow tsrm for the ignitor test but don't have a 3v source. If there is another way to test it tell me because I have no idea.

 

[jetjock]

Not that your igniter is bad but you can always go to the nearest store for two 1.5 volt sources and put them together...

 

[kakanator]

So i got my hands on a different grey plug harness.
When I went to install it the 5 speed grey plug would not work with my car. The car is auto grey plug. So the part that goes to the fuse box in the engine bay would not work.
Also the big square plug by the ecu will not work.
So i took all that off and put mine back on. checked some things but still the same running on less then 6 cylinders.

I have swapped ignitor, cps, tps, injector resistor, but still the same. Today I got a new set up plugs and cleaned the threads for the new plugs. Still the same I also thought maybe my is300 coils were bad so i swapped to stock 7m ngk from a working car and for like 3 seconds the car ran on all 6 from what I could tell.
But got a cel and it was code 22 water temp. The car only ran for a few seconds before it shut off. I'm lost and I have tried the things I could think of that would not let my car start. If I hold the gas down it will run on like 4 cylinders but as soon as i let off it dies.
There is black smoke coming from the exhaust like I'm getting all the injectors but not all of the plugs are firing. Im getting 12v at the coil pack harness. also I'm getting 12v at the injector clips. That does not sound right to me should be like 3v right?

 

[3p141592654]

car was running fine -> harness melted and no longer runs -> repaired harness, still doesn't run -> ?

I suggest you focus on the harness rather than replacing all the engine parts. Quite possibly you have an issue with the injector wiring, but rather than guess, get out a DVM and start debugging.

 

[kakanator]

Yea i know i have been looking for a grey plug 09 automatic harness but nothing. I don't know what DVM means. Today I went out and swapped out the coil pack harness and the car started just fine. I let it run for a while and all was good. Then it just shut off and then would not start up again.

 

[3p141592654]

DVM = digital volt meter. If the problem is intermittent, then you will need to shake the harness while measuring to find broken wires.

 

[Nick M]

Not that your igniter is bad but you can always go to the nearest store for two 1.5 volt sources and put them together...

My local Radio Shack closed its doors. Along with 30 others in the metro area from what I read.

 

[jetjock]

Yep, they're circling the drain. Closed 4000 stores nationwide. Been chapter 11 for a while and soon about to go chapter 7. Another American icon bites the dust, along with Colt. Course, the OP could have gone to any store and bought a couple AAs...