Ok so I bought a 86.5 with a 1jz swap. I drove it about 60 miles home with no problems ran like a champ. I went to leave the house had no problems at first but about 10 minutes down the road it started spitting and sputtering at 2k rpm like the cam sensor was going out(but would idle great besides it running rich air/fuel was reading 11). So when I got back to the house turned the car off, went inside for a few minutes came out to troubleshoot and it will not crank. Not even turn over, doesn't prime the fuel pump doesn't even turn the starter over. Now I have piggybacked the diagnostics plug to make sure it will send fuel and yes its getting fuel so not the pump. Also did the same thing to pull codes off the ecu and no codes. I have also tried locking and unlocking the doors to see if its the factory alarm killing the starter and the doesn't work as well. The battery is good I'm getting 12-14 volts, all dash lights, gauges, vents, radio, etc. are all working. I have checked all of the grounds and fuses I don't know where to go next. Gonna try to get the guy I bought it from to come check it out. Thanks everybody.
1jz swap will not do anything
- Thread starter ALASupra
- Start date
mabey your starter went out on you. can you try hooking 12v strait to it to see if it is working.
i would say check your ecu caps but i dont think that would stop you from being able to turn the engine over.
i would say check your ecu caps but i dont think that would stop you from being able to turn the engine over.
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Yea I have thought of that but didn't think that would be it because of it not priming the fuel pump. I will give it a try. I was able to get in touch with the previous owner he said he would ride out to check it out, maybe he knows something he didn't tell me. Thanks for the reply.
OneJSupra;1630940 said:
Don't be cocky, chip is right. If the car doesn't even crank then it is not a problem with the ECU.
However... I did once have a problem with wiring where the fuel injectors stuck open causing the motor to fill with fuel, then it wouldn't crank because the motor was hydrolocked.
Pull your plugs and see if you're full of fuel. You could have a combination of problems.
I'm with him ^ You stated that your AFR were in the 11's which is very rich especially for a car at idle. Its possible the cyliders are filled with fuel or you have leaky injectors which are leaking while the car is off. Pull the plugs and try cranking the car over.
mkiiichip;1630949 said:
So if you pull your ECU out you can still crank over the motor? I have never tried this but I thought there was a start circuit for power to run to certain parts in the ecu and then power crank sensors and stuff a start switch.. Anyhow I am curious.
mkiiichip;1632013 said:
Ahh, I see. I know that the starter circuit just opens the relay in the engine bay directing power from the battery to the starter, and the solenoid from the engine harness.
mkiiichip;1632024 said:
I do more of the actual swap parts. I don't take ECU's out and check to see if the motor starts, I thought you may go into those details, but I don't waste time with useless posts either.
Ok well thanks for all the insight guys. Turned out that the guy bypassed the clutch with some B/S wiring. Fixed that fired right up. But after a few days of driving the check engine light came back on and its not reving past like 2500. So i checked the codes and it gave me 31 and 34. Ok 31 is air flow meter signal, and 34 is turbocharger pressure. Thanks again for the help>
Another '1jz issues' post that makes me love the fact I'm going MS2.
Btw, good info on a few things, these always help me with troubleshooting my own and other's cars.
Btw, good info on a few things, these always help me with troubleshooting my own and other's cars.
92TealSupra;1632160 said:
I was just joshing ya.
As you can see here the ECU is not needed to signal the starter.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=038
There is a line that goes to the ecu for the cold start injector, but thats not needed to make the car turn over.
To the OP.
The map sensor has three wires and a vacuum line going to it.
Stock, the vacuum line originates at the vacuum filter, forward from the ISCV.
The three wires are (not in order):
5v Reference
Ground
Signal
Find which one is the signal, and post the voltage readings:
Key on, engine off,
Engine running,
And post the actual running vacuum reading.
Now we may have an ecu issue. (waiting for OneJ's "told ya so")