1jz fuel cut at low boost after engine swap

Kaneda1jz

New Member
Oct 16, 2008
10
0
0
Montreal, QC
Hai gais!

1st post on here, so I'll try to make it good and include as much details as I can.

I own a 1991 Soarer 1jz-gte. It has a FMIC, HKS F-conV, HKS boost controller, 3.5'' catback, stock twins, high boost set at around 14.3 PSI.
I've been drifting it for two seasons so the engine had seen enough and instead of rebuilding the whole thing which I thought would be too long and costy I found a cheap used 1jz and decided to swap the whole thing. Having no time nor garage to do the job myself, I had to pay someone else to do it for me.

I took the car out of the shop after a while (the guy was busy working on more important customers' race cars...) to realise something was really wrong: whenever I press the gas pedal more than around 15-20%, it started cutting, pretty much like a stock cutoff, except around 3-4k RPM.

The guy did an awful job, forgetting to plug all my gauges, so first thing I did was to plug back my A/F ratio to see what was going on. Verdict: fuel cut. When I keep it in the critical area, it slowly becomes lean to eventualy get fully lean and cut. When I floor it it immediately cuts, around 4000RPM at neutral and 3000RPM when driving, as soon as the boost starts building. It's not directly boost related IMO, because when I press the throttle slightly and keep it in the critical area it cuts without even boosting, as if the injectors didn't get enough fuel. When I go easy on the throttle however, the engine revs great and I can hit the stock cutoff with the mixture staying normal.

There was a weird sound coming out of the fuel pump that I never hear before the swap, it was heard when the fuel cut occured and for a few seconds when I started the car. So I thought that my fuel pump was gone.

I ordered a Walbro 255LPH unit, installed it. I had to jump the fuel pump ECU for it to work because the unit was only sending small impulses to the pump (don't know why). Anyways, jumping the ECU allowed the car to start, but the problem was still there. It was a little better when I took the car out, but as I drove it, it got worse and eventualy returned to the same bad fuel cut. By the way, is 8-9V at the pump normal? Or should I run it with 12V?

So then I though...maybe the fuel filter is clogged, so I replaced it, no change.

Last attempt, I thought the FPR of the new engine might be blocked since it looked like it was stored outside for a while, so I replaced it with the unit from my previous fuel rail, without any changes once again.

So here I am, asking you guys' help.

I did pretty much anything I could think of, I've heard it might be ECU related, but it really doesn't feel so, it really feels like a physical problem.

Please halp!

thanks!
 

Kaneda1jz

New Member
Oct 16, 2008
10
0
0
Montreal, QC
piz halp!

anything you might think of, let me know...

I'm really screwed i'm trying to sell the car but it can't be sold in it's current state...

piz gaiz :)
 

Kaneda1jz

New Member
Oct 16, 2008
10
0
0
Montreal, QC
it could be just that?

it's just these 2 little slots? that little ajustment could give that much problem??

I thought it felt like a TPS trouble but when I saw how small the ajustment was I thought it couldn't cause that much of a problem...
 

Kaneda1jz

New Member
Oct 16, 2008
10
0
0
Montreal, QC
I tried to tweak it, didn't change shit.

I noticed the car lets a nice black puff when jerking the throttle at neutral...it enriches it...it just can't give enough fuel to feed the engine under load.
 

Colie

New Member
Oct 17, 2005
35
0
0
42
Montreal, QC
www.supraquebec.com
annoyingrob;1173523 said:
What's your fuel pressure look like?

BTW, 9v at the pump is NOT normal. You should be seeing atleast 12v. I highly recommend re-wiring the pump.

Kaneda, that's the problem with the relay of the pump i told you i had with my supra.
C'est justement le by-pass que j'ai sur ma supra que je voulais que tu essais.
 

Kaneda1jz

New Member
Oct 16, 2008
10
0
0
Montreal, QC
I rechecked and I actualy have alternator voltage at the pump. Don't know where that 8-9V reading came from last time I checked.

I did bypass the fuel pump ECU.
 

Deeznuts

New Member
Apr 24, 2005
80
0
0
VA
maybe ecu trouble or MAP? when i first did my swap I didnt have a MAP and it ran like that. It actually idled but no power.
 

tavarish

New Member
Sep 10, 2007
16
0
0
37
Jersey
I'd also lean towards the map not being connected. it's easy to miss. I didn have my map connected at first, and it didnt want to run right.

here's a list of things to check, which are common issues:

ignitor
MAP sensor
Coil packs.
 

Suprickup

New Member
Nov 28, 2008
2
0
0
Connecticut
Hey there, did you figure out the problem with the car as yet. I'm having the same prob only diff is i pulled codes for TPS, MAP Sensor, W/Temp, Air Intake Temp. I have replaced the W/temp and TPS and the codes still remain. Let me know the outcome. Mine is a JZA70 with stock ECU.
Kaneda1jz;1160890 said:
Hai gais!

1st post on here, so I'll try to make it good and include as much details as I can.

I own a 1991 Soarer 1jz-gte. It has a FMIC, HKS F-conV, HKS boost controller, 3.5'' catback, stock twins, high boost set at around 14.3 PSI.
I've been drifting it for two seasons so the engine had seen enough and instead of rebuilding the whole thing which I thought would be too long and costy I found a cheap used 1jz and decided to swap the whole thing. Having no time nor garage to do the job myself, I had to pay someone else to do it for me.

I took the car out of the shop after a while (the guy was busy working on more important customers' race cars...) to realise something was really wrong: whenever I press the gas pedal more than around 15-20%, it started cutting, pretty much like a stock cutoff, except around 3-4k RPM.

The guy did an awful job, forgetting to plug all my gauges, so first thing I did was to plug back my A/F ratio to see what was going on. Verdict: fuel cut. When I keep it in the critical area, it slowly becomes lean to eventualy get fully lean and cut. When I floor it it immediately cuts, around 4000RPM at neutral and 3000RPM when driving, as soon as the boost starts building. It's not directly boost related IMO, because when I press the throttle slightly and keep it in the critical area it cuts without even boosting, as if the injectors didn't get enough fuel. When I go easy on the throttle however, the engine revs great and I can hit the stock cutoff with the mixture staying normal.

There was a weird sound coming out of the fuel pump that I never hear before the swap, it was heard when the fuel cut occured and for a few seconds when I started the car. So I thought that my fuel pump was gone.

I ordered a Walbro 255LPH unit, installed it. I had to jump the fuel pump ECU for it to work because the unit was only sending small impulses to the pump (don't know why). Anyways, jumping the ECU allowed the car to start, but the problem was still there. It was a little better when I took the car out, but as I drove it, it got worse and eventualy returned to the same bad fuel cut. By the way, is 8-9V at the pump normal? Or should I run it with 12V?

So then I though...maybe the fuel filter is clogged, so I replaced it, no change.

Last attempt, I thought the FPR of the new engine might be blocked since it looked like it was stored outside for a while, so I replaced it with the unit from my previous fuel rail, without any changes once again.

So here I am, asking you guys' help.

I did pretty much anything I could think of, I've heard it might be ECU related, but it really doesn't feel so, it really feels like a physical problem.

Please halp!

thanks!
 

Suprickup

New Member
Nov 28, 2008
2
0
0
Connecticut
I have figured out what was wrong with my car, i had a ground wire pinned wrong in the ECU harness. I overlooked it so many times so check yours to be sure they are in the correct spot.