I swapped a 1988 7mgte ina 1987 non turbo chassis used 7mgte harness and electronics. I have a no spark and the fuel pump does not run when i turn the key on but runs when cranking the car. My turbo uel pump relay is making a buzzing sound even when the keys are not in it. Is there a relay that has to be changed or is there a pinout on the main plug that plugs from the engine harness to the dash harness? From what i am to undrstand the efi is controlled through the ignition switch n the n/a and throught the ecu on the turbo. Any help would be appreciated greatly!!
1987 7mge swapped to 1988 7mgte no spark no fuel
- Thread starter alien4real
- Start date
alien4real;1589794 said:
The EFI system probably works. The circuit opening relay is functioning. I would think of a secondary ignition problem. What codes is it storing?
You can check the tsrm for pinouts between the two engines. Also there you can get proper testing procedures to check your cps which i believe controls spark and fuel? Spark for sure iffy on the fuel. As far as your pump not working with key on that is correct operation, only works when cranking and running. Are you positive you are not getting fuel?
Check codes and check cps.
Check codes and check cps.
cps is definitely a good place to look, because you will get a rpm signal and that tells it to send spark,
tsrm is always a good read!
tsrm is always a good read!
89supra7mgte;1589854 said:
I'm not 100% positive but a gut feeling tells me the pump isn't the issue due to the engine was locked up in the crank bearings whch had to happen while running. The fuel pump relay shouldn't run with the key off and out of the ignition. The cps i don't feel is the issue either becasue the engine was pulled from a wreck which had to be running pretty darn good to put it on its lid. The efi is wired off the ignition in the 1986.5-1988 on the nonturbo's. The efi is wired through the ecu on the turbo's . I have no access to a scanner at the moment so i'm doing this blindfolded . I'll be sure to post a video somehwere when its running. I could hotwire the car like i have done to 10-15 of my demolition derby cars but who wants to have a switch to turn on the fuel pump everytime. tommorrow is another day so a test light and some wiring schematics tell all. i have the ecu pinout if i have to go that far back but i'm just trying to hook it up correctly instead of jimmyrigging it. Thanks for the advice but i'm in need of someone who has completed this swap and isn't afraid of telling all!!
so its a fresh rebuild on a locked up engine? you say video of it running? from when now or past? you cps may be good but not instlled correctly? can you run codes on it.
alien4real;1589887 said:
I am not sure if your fuel pump runs properly anymore. Clarify your problems. Does the pump run all the time as you indicate here? Or you making the statement that the pump doesn't run when the engine is off.
alien4real;1589794 said:
That is normal. You should not have the pump on with the key on engine off. The pump runs when you get the pick up signal from the engine running, or in the crank position.
Don't worry about what the n/a does, if you are not using its ECU.
Nick M;1590011 said:
It was a head gasket replacement on the 7mgte which had 82,000 on the bottom end, the original
7mge was seized in the crank bearings. I found a bad ground connection which i fixed and now have spark. It tried to start but only on 2 cylinders. Pulled the plugs and they are totally dry. checked power to the injectors and all 6 have power. I'm thinking the fuel system has a problem now. The fuel pump runs when i crank it but sounds very faint. Has anyone done this swap and know if there is more to the wiring that needs to be done? I'm thinking the last owner was not liked much and someone put something in the tank. Tommorrow i'm going to pull the tank out and check fuel filter and pump. Thanks for the help and hopefully the pump is the problem.
To clarify exactly what is going on now is the pump runs when i crank it but not briefly when i turn the key on. I do not here the relay run and there seems to be minimal fuel to the injectors. To make sure i'm correct in thining is this a two stage pump ?
The fuel pump will not ever run if the engine is not running or cranking. There is no priming of the pump on this system from Toyota when you put the key in the on position.
Since you have dry spark plugs and the pump seems to run, can you hook up a fuel pressure guage? The turbo model has different injectors, I hope you are using those.
Since you have dry spark plugs and the pump seems to run, can you hook up a fuel pressure guage? The turbo model has different injectors, I hope you are using those.
89supra7mgte;1590565 said:
What is the firing order on the coilpacks to double check mine? Yes i used turbo injectors and fuel rail but still using the stock 7mge fuel pump in the car. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge so i'm playing a guessing game without that tool. I don't have a scanner to pull the codes and see if something else is the problem either. The worst part about it is my father whom was supposed to help me with this swap has a scanner and fuel pressure gauge do too he owned a auto repair shop for 11 years. I'm extremely mechanically inclined do too growing up in the shop. I've never seen a fuel system that doesn't prime its rail on turning the key. The mazda rx-7's even primed the fuel rail. HMM Toyota must have been thinking really hard when they built this system. Toyotas are my favorite because there inline engines are Incredible sounding and out perform all other sports cars in their class!!
Well, you have now (seen a fuel system that doesn't prime with the key). And a scanner? Sounds like a case of you needing to RTFM...
No scanner here jump the diag block e1 and te1 to flash check engine light and get code numbers then check tsrm for definition. You need to change out the ge pump to gte, and go from there. i think the coil order is 164325? i dont quite remember off the top of my head
jetjock;1590633 said:
I'm thinking alot about it, because i really need the car to get a job. It has plagued me all afternoon. I sat down with test light checking power and grounds with no luck. In my eyes it acts like a plugged fuel filter or bad pump. tommorrow is another day and i plan on dropping the tank to check the pump and remove the filter. Are the fuel pressure regulators the same from the ge to the gte? Figure on checking the power to the pump while its out also.
If you really think the pump isn't running you could always jumper it on using the diag block. B+ to FP. The next step would be to check fuel pressure. A half assed way to do that is look at the top of the damper and see if the screw is standing proud. That won't check flow though.
Codes can be check by shorting TE1 and E1...
Codes can be check by shorting TE1 and E1...
alien4real;1590614 said:
It isnt' as uncommmon as you think. Not everybody has a big inertia switch in the trunk like Ford did to shut the power to the pump when the car is in a wreck. The coil packs are from left to right 1-6, 3-4, 2-5.
Not uncommon is right. It's been the law for a long time there be some sort of fuel interlock. OEMs just do it in different ways.
jetjock;1590666 said:
My #'s are faded on my diagnostics lid, which ones are which? Thank you for the coil packs configuration. I will jumper it tommorrow if i know which ones are which? Is there a inertia switch in the 1987 supra? My chiltons manual is good for nothing on any of the cps timing instructions and plug wire configuration. I didn't remove any of the plug wires from the coil upon the swap but better double check it to make sure. I can't believe the car actually started on 2 cylinders and ran for 30 seconds before dying. It seems this is going to be one tough cookie to crack and one tough running car after i figure it out.Thanks everone and appreciate the help!!
ok well this is gonna sound very stupid but my firing order is off on my if it really is 163425 mine as i marked and jusst matched up is 164352 i shit you not. it ran great and i am gonna look for the post that gave me that order. I know it fires companions at the same time one on compression and one on exhaust but that would mean for mine to run properly my injector wires would have to be changed too right? but that also means my cam lobes would have to backwards? I dynoed it that way too. But now i am wondering why it ran so good? But also know if in fact that is incorrect order that is probably why i blew the head gasket?
^ That's wiring order, not firing order, but I think that's what he was looking for.
OP: Look here for the diag box:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx
There is no G switch on these cars. Fuel interlocking on non-turbo vehicles is provided by a switch in the AFM. Turbo cars use the CPS by way of the ECU...
OP: Look here for the diag box:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx
There is no G switch on these cars. Fuel interlocking on non-turbo vehicles is provided by a switch in the AFM. Turbo cars use the CPS by way of the ECU...