1.5JZGTE FMIC hoses, huh???

tekimp

Airborne
Aug 8, 2007
101
0
0
Fort Bragg, NC
Well, I bought myself a 91 supra with a 1.5JZGTE engine in it. Thought the guy in Atlanta was gonna be fair and trustworthy. I was wrong. I drove the car form Atlanta back to Ft. Bragg with no incident. Then when I got over the excitement of having a supra again, I started realizing the many things that needed serious repair. Oh well, it's a beautiful car with a good deal of power.

Now, the dude did the swap and all himself, but, a crappy job on the wiring and everything else. The only good thing (truthfully) is the body... well, there are a ton of mods on it too.

So the problem. The FMIC... front facing intake manifold? UGH! Maybe wrong part, but still... it's right after the intercooler and throttle body. It has a TON of vaccum lines. Only a couple are connected, while the rest are not.

I NEED SOME DIAGRAMS OR PICTURES. Of where these lines go to, what they connect to.


One Major problem is this...

There's a big port in the back of the intake manifold, some sensor attatched to it, Sucking in a tons of air... but what hose is suppose to connect to that and where does it connect to? When I block it off the engine dies down... tries to quit. What sensor is that?

There's two smaller lines prior to the throttle body, I think... both are connected to nothing right now, what do they go to?

I've tried to look for some TRM's, but the links listed don't work.

ALL HELP IS WELCOMED!

After I get this vaccum problem fixed, it's off to the idle problem... ugh, a serious project car on my hands now... and I wanted a car already build to enjoy....

Looking forward to some response.

Respectfully,
Steven

P.S.- even though the car is kind of jacked up, it's still got the power to beat a supercharged Cobalt SS, so I ain't too upset. Maybe I shouldn't have let my SGT drive my supra till it gets fixed right... oh well.
 

tekimp

Airborne
Aug 8, 2007
101
0
0
Fort Bragg, NC
Pics will be on tomorrow, I promise. Haven't taken pictures yet. Promise will take a ton tomorrow and post.

NOW... the crazy test I did....

I hooked a small radiator hose from that port in the back of the intake manifold and connected it to that valve port on the top mid left of the engine... and reconnected a loose hose on the waste gate.

RESULTS...

Before I was pushing 5~10 lbs of boost... now... I am pushing 15lbs of boost at 3k~4k rpm. each time I see it get up and hold at 15lbs of boost I left off the gas, the HKS EVC III is broken, so I don't want to blow the engine... I know, I am stupid for not getting a new boost controller....

Anyhow... is that where the hose is suppose to go? Does it need a T-section to a breather filter?


HERE THE SPECs ON THE CAR...

full engine cryotreated

fully built 1jz head with
1mm oversized valves
10k rpm valve train
portmatch and polish
AEM adjustable cam gear(exhaust only)
equal length headder
GT40-82 turbo .94 A/R <--- what's this mean?
3.5in exhaust turbo back no cats
turbonetics newgen wastegate
680cc injectors

fully built bottom end 2jz
TT lower compression pistons
TT rods
clevitte 77 bearings
balanced and blueprinted

southbend DXD clutch
4:10 torsen diff
31X12X4 custom intercooler
dual hks SSQV
ARP head and main studs, rod bolts and flywheel bolts

electronics
walbro 255 fuel pump

AFPR <--- is it on there or not???

*** BROKEN/FRIED *** HKS evc III

autometer boost, water temp, oil pressure, BROKEN fuel pressure, and EGT gauges

Paid $7500 for the car... not too bad a deal? Or was it?
 

Guyana00

Droppin that JZ in soon!
Apr 18, 2007
1,208
0
0
Brampton, ON
Think of the letters...FMIC = Front Mount InterCooler

FFIM = Front Facing Intake Manifold.

I don't know if the AFPR is on there, you don't know what it looks like or where to look? You might need to be doing a little research or you're going to find yourself in trouble with this car.

A/R is something you have to look up and read about it. Different sizes on different turbos have different effects. Anyways, good luck.
 

SupraStardom

New Member
Nov 11, 2006
181
0
0
Council Bluffs, IA
OneJArpus;1417744 said:
The only big hose at the back of the intake manifold i can think of is for the brake booster but im not sure with out looking at pics.

Yea i was thinking this too, but i think he would have said that the biggest issue driving back would be the brakes sucked lol. But still worth looking. Honestly to help you we need pics of the stuff that you have questions about.
 

Datsrboi

Loud pipes Save Lives
Jul 31, 2007
797
0
0
Haltom Texas
www.cardomain.com
As much as you saying the last guy sucked at what he was doing, I do not think you do either. Especially if you do not know what some of the stuff on that car is.

There's a big port in the back of the intake manifold, some sensor attatched to it, Sucking in a tons of air... but what hose is suppose to connect to that and where does it connect to? When I block it off the engine dies down... tries to quit. What sensor is that?

Thats the idle control valve. At idle it opens up to let in air. As you start driving it closes. Do not block it.

The valves before the throttle body goes to a one way valve. I believe it went to the power steering for idle up at turning on idle. You do not need it. Just block it and you'll be fine.

I hooked a small radiator hose from that port in the back of the intake manifold and connected it to that valve port on the top mid left of the engine... and reconnected a loose hose on the waste gate.

Spend more time on the forum and look at some of the TSRM manuals posted FREE on the forum. "I've tried to look for some TRM's, but the links listed don't work." try again and search around. Its there and I just used it like 2 hours ago. Look for the 1jz one and not the 7m. That back hose port that sticks out on the back of the manifold goes to the brake booster. There is a separate one way valve on the hose (which is obviously not there) that from there plugs into the brake booster to help you with breaking. Without it and the way you have it hook up you are forcing air into the into the valve cover and into the head.

The hose on the wastegate is suppoer to connect to the cold side of the turbo. Not to anywhere else examply the intake manifold. it has to connect somewhere between the cold side turbo and the throttle body. Anywhere else and it will not open or open at the wrong time. Get some valcum/pressure gauge and test the wastegate to see when it opens and thats the boost level when it opens.

FPR-fuel pressure regulator.. Follow your fuelrail and see if theres any aftermarket hose connected to it following to a red square like unit the size of a small gps unit or so. I say red because its what a lot of supra owners used the aeromotive fpr. If you see one thats the fpr.


Overall do not mess with the car. Your not sure of the car yourself and I would not mess with it. Not being an ass but find some supra local guy to help you. Hate to see an another supra go bad because of mistakes.
 

tekimp

Airborne
Aug 8, 2007
101
0
0
Fort Bragg, NC
Datsrboi;1418020 said:
As much as you saying the last guy sucked at what he was doing, I do not think you do either. Especially if you do not know what some of the stuff on that car is.



Thats the idle control valve. At idle it opens up to let in air. As you start driving it closes. Do not block it.

The valves before the throttle body goes to a one way valve. I believe it went to the power steering for idle up at turning on idle. You do not need it. Just block it and you'll be fine.



Spend more time on the forum and look at some of the TSRM manuals posted FREE on the forum. "I've tried to look for some TRM's, but the links listed don't work." try again and search around. Its there and I just used it like 2 hours ago. Look for the 1jz one and not the 7m. That back hose port that sticks out on the back of the manifold goes to the brake booster. There is a separate one way valve on the hose (which is obviously not there) that from there plugs into the brake booster to help you with breaking. Without it and the way you have it hook up you are forcing air into the into the valve cover and into the head.

The hose on the wastegate is suppoer to connect to the cold side of the turbo. Not to anywhere else examply the intake manifold. it has to connect somewhere between the cold side turbo and the throttle body. Anywhere else and it will not open or open at the wrong time. Get some valcum/pressure gauge and test the wastegate to see when it opens and thats the boost level when it opens.

FPR-fuel pressure regulator.. Follow your fuelrail and see if theres any aftermarket hose connected to it following to a red square like unit the size of a small gps unit or so. I say red because its what a lot of supra owners used the aeromotive fpr. If you see one thats the fpr.


Overall do not mess with the car. Your not sure of the car yourself and I would not mess with it. Not being an ass but find some supra local guy to help you. Hate to see an
another supra go bad because of mistakes.

Thankyou! Yeah, I'm not the best at this. I have all the TRM's for the 7M, just not the 1J or 2J for that matter.

Gonna try to work on this during lunch. Never enough time.

Also, sorry again for the inability to say what some of these things were, I'm totally zombified from being on Staff Duty. Sad thing is, I have Staff Duty all week long... YAY... sucks to be me.
 

tekimp

Airborne
Aug 8, 2007
101
0
0
Fort Bragg, NC
Forgot to mention, Drag strip open this friday here in town, plan on going to find some people with Supra's. Last I recall, there are about 5 Supra's in town. Hopefully, I'll be able to get together with one of these guys. Pretty sure many of the Supra people around here are deployed to Iraq or Afghan... considering I'm going soon, I wanna do my best to get this car fixed before I leave, so I have something to come back to.
 

boostindoo

New Member
Jul 18, 2006
179
0
0
raleigh
wow, sounds like u bought a half assed car....u should of bought mine, lol....be very sure of what ur doing before u do it.... sounds like it has good parts on it, but thats only half of it... good luck....
 

rakkasan

Currahee!!
Mar 31, 2005
2,997
0
36
54
Fort Campbell, KY
LOL, rear D sucks

I suggest that you don't touch your car until you redeploy from the 'Stan, and while you're there, research your ass off. It sounds like you got a good deal, now all you have to do is learn about Supras and work out the bugs when you return. Plus, the extra cash from deploying will come in handy for buying parts
 

tekimp

Airborne
Aug 8, 2007
101
0
0
Fort Bragg, NC
Well, issues, issues, issues.

Put a breather filter on the icv valve. Took car to friend's garage. Lifted it up... and... more trouble.

As I drove the car into the garage the power steering pressure line burst. WHAT TIMING!

So we scrambled to attempt to patch it up... outcome... impossible fix without OEM parts. So, have to wait 3 days for part to come in. Mean while gonna put on another belt, gonna run it without p/s or a/c. More respect for power steering now.

Exhaust system was a bit loose and leaking exhaust like crazy. Secured exhausted system, patched it up, and fixed that.

Clutch inspection covers missing. One of four bolts on the transmission mounting bracket missing.

One of the main mounting bolts on the differential sheered off.

Two bolts from oil pan missing....

Lord knows what else.

It's a "project" now. Luckily my neighbor has good friends who can help me out with this.

So many problems. Ain't getting but 3 hours of sleep each night... please excuse me if I ain't talking much sense here. Seriously having some major brain farts here.

I am truly greatful for all ya'll help. I cannot thankyou all enough.

As per "other" people who own supra's in town. I've no luck in finding any so far. The guy with the white supra is more than likely deployed. The other guy with the other white supra... sold his supra... don't have contact info. The guy with the blue supra, well, that was his son's car and he doesn't know much about them.

These listed are MK III with the 7 engine and light mods.

There is one Black MK IV n/a. Guy works at a local bank... seriously doubt he knows much.

Pretty much have to learn as much as possible through here and do my best to get it done.

Hopefully, will get a chance to go to the drag strip on friday to look for other supra people.
 

tekimp

Airborne
Aug 8, 2007
101
0
0
Fort Bragg, NC
boostindoo;1418477 said:
take it to majestic motorsports in jacksonville nc, they know supras

Darn it. Can't leave Ft. Bragg area this week. Got to pull Staff Duty all week long... so stuck here till monday.

Will definately do my best to stop up there though.
 

tekimp

Airborne
Aug 8, 2007
101
0
0
Fort Bragg, NC
Sorry, still busy with work. Really killing me here.

Now running the no a/c and no p/s belt with the different idler pulley, just for temporary.

Yet, what is the vaccum pressure suppose to be at? Max? Min?

I read someone say it was suppose to be at - 20 lbs on idle? And when it goes into the positive, that's pretty much how much boost you're running, right? (Stupid question, but better to ask a stupid question than continue being stupid).

Seems like my boost pressure is a lot more than -20... more like -23 to -27

Even the oil pressure seems to have gone up. I called a friend for immediate advice, of course he doesn't know much about supra's, but he said as long as I had oil pressure I was okay.

I also read the oil pressure was suppose to be about 10 to 20? Yet mine spikes up to way high on start up then on 3000 rpm it ranges from 30~60.

I capped off the p/s pump, and there are definitely no leaks in the vacuum lines. maybe I didn't route the vacuum lines right?

Still need to go out and get a boost controller tomorrow... luckily payday is tomorrow... I get new tires tomorrow, I get the p/s pressure line tomorrow... hopefully get the coil packs tomorrow.

I am doing my best to get this thing working proper, I really am doing my best here. Just need alittle more assistance here.
 

Datsrboi

Loud pipes Save Lives
Jul 31, 2007
797
0
0
Haltom Texas
www.cardomain.com
I am doing my best to get this thing working proper, I really am doing my best here. Just need alittle more assistance here.

Not going to happen without detailed pictures. Base on what you said I would not touch the car too much in term of changing things around. Instead write down and take pictures of what you think is wrong and we will tell you what to do. Other then that its your words against your own motor.
 

tekimp

Airborne
Aug 8, 2007
101
0
0
Fort Bragg, NC
Ugh, having trouble uploading photos...

Well, fixed power steering.

Why is it that there is a vacuum line to the power steering anyhow?

When I reconnected the belt and vacuum lines to the power steering, the car started running like normal. Oil pressure is good and so is the boost.

What in the world?

Got new tires! YAY!

Have a Greddy Profec E-01 Boost controller coming tomorrow... only $250... not too bad, right? The guy selling me this is also gonna help me install it tomorrow night! I CAN'T WAIT!

Also getting some coil packs in sometime soon... and a new clutch. So, things are slowly coming together here.

I think that should solve most of my problems.

Minus the sheered differential mounting bolt and few other missing bolts... ugh.

Regardless, I am a whole heck of a lot more happy, now that I can enjoy my car again.

Thank you all for all the help, guidance, and support.
 

mk3tattoos

New Member
Apr 12, 2008
1,104
0
0
Bremerton, Wa
way past due for pics already, but yet he keeps messing with stuff. oil pressure is not supposed to be 20-30psi its twice that at idle! i would have to say pictures are first priority, even before installing a boost controller.