Search results

I have a broken window, the one behind the driver's door. Is there anything special about replacing this, i.e. special tools or adhesives? I have the glass already but I want to be prepared before I tackle it this weekend. Thanks

FP sounds about right for your situation. If you can adjust it higher try that out. With my car when I had the FPD bypass on it was better when the base FP was around 50psi, but still broke up. Anything under 40 psi was terrible.

Excellent! Enjoy!

Engine side: 69mm turbo, BC 264 cams, 440s, Aeromotive FPR, S-AFC, Walbro, 4" cold air intake, huge IC up front + hardpipes and all the other necessary mods.

That setup wouldn't have fit my 1jz. The fuel line goes from the point in the tranny tunnel direct to the fuel rail. I'm still not sure that the FPD I had is a 7M or a 1JZ, but I put it in anyway with a slight "drill press" mod. lol. Boosted 21 psi this afternoon, no prob.

Well, I put the FPD setup back in and it 100% completely fixed my problem. Thanks to RockPaperSwoRD for suggesting the idea. I'm starting to like my car again... Anyone need a DM FPD Bypass hose? :)

I have pretty much the same problem. Fuel pressure is definately related as the problem gets worse the lower my base fp is. My old Walbro maxes out around 60 psi so I try to keep the base set around 35-40 psi for a bit of headroom. I also have the DM dampener bypass so I started working on...

Under light - moderate load (200-300 mm/Hg) and roughly between 3500-4000 RPM my 1JZ goes very lean. On my WB display it goes from 14.x - 16.x during this spot. I run 440 injectors, BC cams, an AEM FPR and a S-AFC to trim the fuel. It was doing this prior to all of these mods, so I don't...

The heater control for my 88T is not operating properly this morning. Symptoms: - Fan works when you manually push the buttons manully. - Auto mode will not work to heat (set to max - 32C), but works perfectly fine with you you set it to 18C to cool the car. - When you manually run the...

I built mine using 3/4" copper tubing. 45 degree elbows and straight pipe soldered up. It fits perfectly inside the existing 1JZ dump hose to connect it to the block drain connection. I did this with a single upgrade, but I can't see any reason you couldn't do it on the stock twins.

Nice. Now what to do... I wonder if it will make a nice pulse jet? Maybe I'll put a pulley on the turbine and make a supercharger out of it for my lawnmower.

Not sure anyone cares at this point, but I measured mine up and it has the 69mm compressor as well. Note that it surges like an SOB too.

Man, now I have to take mine apart to see if it's a T-70 too considering all the part / model numbers matched. Any point to trying to throw a smaller exhaust housing on it?

I see Rob @ 935Motorsports is posting in this thread. He actually sold me this turbo. :)

The pictures came out kinda crappy but I can confirm that the Part no + model + first part of the serial number are the exact same as yours. BTW I think I have the exact same coffee pot as you too.

Something tells me I think its the same compressor section, but with a T4 exhaust housing instead of the T3 on the Super 70. I'll try and remember to take that pic for you and look at the data plate.

This looks like the exact same turbo that is on my car. It's from XS Power and is informally called a T61. It came with their 2JZ-NAT kits. http://www.xs-power.com/toyota-turbo-kits-1.htm i'm using this turbo on a 1JZ. It's quite laggy with full boost at 5000 RPM and i've been...

I completed my 1JZ swap last year with the A/C. I vac'ed the system and charged properly (I thought) The A/C blew cold air and the compressor cycled on and off as expected. This year when I went to try it out, the compressor wouldn't engage. I checked the pressure on the low side and it...

I have a noise coming form the P/S pump that sounds like squeak. Not a whine. If I rev the motor to about 1500 RPM it goes away. Also, I tried shooting a bit of WD-40 in the area between the pump and pulley and the noise temporarily went away as well for about 15-20 minutes. Is there a...

The proper way to measure your baseline fuel pressure is by temporarily removing the vacuum line to the FPR. When you drive the car, you always have the vacuum line on.