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answer still is the same as what i told you in the other forum. for the crank damper, only two options exsist. Toyota OEM Damper ATI Damper. everything else goes into the trash bin.

Yep! I had a sheared oil pump bolt cause the timing belt to slap against the rear cover as the oil pump cam was wobbling.

Well i mention that as the only thing that comes up is MKIV lights. Now there are some LED tail lights but they were all custom.

MKIII/MA70 supra never had those lights. You sure you got the right model year supra?

disconnecting the A/C fuse might allow the power to not reach the climate control which will alleviate the AC signal

the majority of time, Code 51 is due to an incorrectly calibrated TPS but looks like you have that covered. The neutral start switch from the auto will more than likely be your culprit. You will need to check and make sure you have continuity as followed (might require jumpers). The AC...

outside of the spam post above. I have been here off and on for a bit. Glad it is back. :D

You only need the labels while the wires are not in their connectors. Once the wires are pinned up in the connector. No need for labels on each individual wire. the spreadsheet should tell you exactly where the wires goes from to. Hence why regardless of color, it is IMPORTANT to run a...

curse resonance!

psst. save some coin and get one or two colors tops. you will need to label each end and have a running spreadsheet with assignments but it simplifies buying the wire and if you buy more of the same size, you tend to get a hefty discount. I deal exclusively in white for the wire i get since...

TXL is in most OEM cars.

FYI, there is about one hundred different categories under that (series number). Funny enough, i have a post explaining the most commonly used in the racing world right here in Supramania! https://www.supramania.com/threads/more-than-you-ever-wanted-to-know-about-wire.70379/ I dislike PTFE...

oh boy! wrecked that u-joint up and all 4 corners. damn. Was that an OEM driveshaft? You might have to put a grinder to those washers and remove them and see if there is any damage to the joint cups themselves. A "pro"... yeah right!

Still there... It is under Non-Supra Specific > Automotive Tech Questions > Engine Internals/Mechanical > MK3 Engine Fasteners... This is only for the engine and not the entire car https://www.supramania.com/threads/mk3-engine-fasteners.37895/

Say what? The radiator cannot overcool regardless of material choise. That is what the thermostat is there to prevent.

so... my initial guess would be that you have interference going to your RPM signal...not much but it is there. It might be tied to the missfire you are having.

The RPM signal is getting sent from the Megasquirt... So you either have a lose connection or there is something telling the megasquirt that it is climbing that much since in most all standalones, RPM is based on physical crank RPM measurement (12 tooth wheel, 36-1, 60-2 etc). FYI, I am hearing...

they can be. I have seen PTFE, Kapton, Silicone etc. they must have the double lips for the vacuum rating.

Not sure when they went from 6 stages to 5 stages but the 6 stage Weiss/PRC dry sump pump could. Also remember, those dry sump pump survive 800+ hp sustained and that is pulling vacuum that they need to use vacuum pop offs so it dont pull to much vacuum. Btw here is a 6 stage weiss pump. I do...

@trofimovich Just for information... currently there are exactly ZERO manufactures that make engine seals that are vacuum rated for the 7M. SKF is the closest but they do not make vacuum rated seals. Those specific engine seals have to be custom made.