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Those that have installed the Driftmotion or similar 17mm return fitting, did you use a washer? I have an 87 rack that oem was what looked like a large compression fitting with no washer. 17mm crush washers are damn near impossible to find.

Can someone please measure the engine angle of a 7M in relation to the chassis? I am making new mounts and want to shoot for the same as stock to I dont mess up driveline angles. Thanks in advance.

I have the oil pump flywheel intercooler and AFPR. Everything else has sold.

Anyone know the spline count of the input shaft (clutch pressure plate shaft) of the R154?

I know this is very old but came across it and thought, why not plug the exhaust and pressurize the whole system to check for leaks? You coul even manually spin the engine while pressurized to check eack cylinder..

Not sure what experience you have but removing both are easy. If you read the first post the question was removing the hub without removing the spindle as to not mess up my fresh alignment. Was looking for tips on those who may of done it. Not sure why guys with no helpful info feel others...

I finally saw one of the STI hubs and it is stepped. Inner step is 58mm for the rotor and outer is 56mm for the wheel. I just machined my hub down to 58mm and machined a small releif on the ouside diameter to clear the step on the inside of the rotor. I then bought. 73mm x 56mm aluminium hub...

Yes that was never a question. Just didn't want to remove the spindle.

Well it can happen and was actually very easy. I made a puller to remove the hub then after replacing all the wheel bearings just used a large threaded rod with the old race as a spacer threaded through the axle hole and pulled it all together. Easier than I thought. I just was aprehensive as...

That would be a lot cleaner. Wish the kit pipe would come that way. It was a tight fit doing it my way but works good.

Here is mine.

I thought about doing it your way after I already bought the aftermarket one. It was $115 so your way is definitely a cheaper solution if you still have the stock damper. As for the sleeve: only takes one mishap with a ss fuel line and 12volts to ruin your day!!

When I added SS fuel lines I had to remove the fuel damper. This caused lean idle surge and a bad lean spot at around 3800 rpm. I found a nice aftermarket pulse damper made by Marren fuel injection. This with a shorter line from the rail to the regulator solved all my problems. Hope this...

Anyone?

If the STI hub hole is 58mm why are the hubcentric rings for thr same model 56.1mm?

??? No i said maybe. The manual is using an SST. We all know that jobs the manual says use an SST we can do other ways. Was asking those who have done this standard stuff if its possible and if so how they did it. The manual has you removing the whole thing, which i've done before. I just...

Is it possible to remove the rear hubs without removing the spindle? If so anyone have a step by step? Looking in the manual it looks like maybe a slide hammer might do the trick after the c clip is removed.

I was thinking of putting the pulse damper on the open port of my Aeromotive FPR. It is on the high pressure side so it should work.. Any thoughts? The reason I am doing this different is I have already plumbed the entire fuel stystem with Steel braided lines. I have an aftermarket pulse...

Did you have to use the factory steel line that hooks to the fuel rail through the pulsation damper or is there another way?

I tested all sensors and replaced the o2 . No change. It gets better if I bump up thr base fp to 40 with vacuum. I was wondering if the open exhaust and free breathing intake could cause this?