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I have seen the same valve issue on a spare head I picked up awhile ago. Could be a burnt valve, check the valve lash on that valve. If there is no clearance, that would be the case and the valve just melted from being held open.

I personally would not use a stepped drill bit to make the taper. Even IF the steps of the bit created the correct taper to match the taper of the tie rod, the steps are only giving a few contact points, and will eventually deform from the lateral loads. Its much better to have a full contact...

I'm glad you found a solution for you, but it's hard to tell if it's a true upgrade when there was no stock shroud in place. The shroud will improve an performance greatly.

Nice.

Have you checked the output from your crank angle prox? The O.D. looks close to the aluminum timing cover, and may give a false positive. There is an area around the O.D. that the sensor can still pick up even though it is not in front of the sensor face. I see you notched some material and was...

Undersized. The I.D. of the bearing gets smaller since the O.D. of the journal gets smaller. Oversized bearings are used in "cracked" or "broken" connecting rods since they can not have the bores made smaller, the O.D. of the bearing must get bigger for the new bore size. Otherwise, correct.

You must not know much about pipe sizing.. If there was zero pressure drop nobody would make a pipe size over 1/2" diameter...

You can line bore the cam saddles, however it may not be a good idea if the head is warped. Torquing the head bolts will flatten the head to the block if it is slightly warped, but if the cam saddles are line honed it will cause the cam bores to bow and pinch the cam when it is torqued down. I...

Most likely not. I'm sure it would control higher boost, since you would need to bypass less exhaust. However with that large turbo and low boost that gate is going to have a hard time, but that large A/R will help

I wire wheeled mine as well and painted with Eastwood Rust Converter. Try to coat the inside as well, it was worse than the outside on mine.

I used the same technique. There is no real easy way to do it. I used a 1" and 2" putty knife though with the end sharpened. For the tough spots I used the butane torch to soften it before scraping. Its a miserable job when you have to lay under the car to do it, feel like you just left the...

...suspense. Whatever you do, don't touch the red button...

Im actually going to weigh the sound deadening that I remove (all of it), I wont have a chassis weight, but you could get a rough idea based on how much is taken off.

I would say the whole car. Doing the hatch will stop the noise from the mufflers, but the noise will travel to the next closest area to come in. And for what dynamat cost, the difference in price from enough to do the hatch to enough for the whole car is not that much. Plus you could get rid of...

HOORAY!! Another one comes to the darkside.

I wouldn't be too quick about using one of these. I have melted two myself and know plenty of others who have as well. Lasted all but 2k miles. Look into getting an HJS motorsports cat, used in all types of high performance racing. Sure they are much more $$, but will last much longer and...

From what I was told it would hold up to any fuel I put in there, being gas, e85, or diesel. But I guess I'll find out eventually haha.

Not sure if serious about trying to make the fuel tank look better or not.. but I dropped my tank and repaired it recently since it had some bad rust spots and peeling undercoat plus I put in a bigger FP. I used Eastwood chassis black on it, I'm using it on all chassis parts. Its hard as nails...

I would get the alternator checked if the rear defroster is shutting the car off, it may not be up to snuff. Then drop test the other items your having trouble with.

Yea, that sounds about right, machine time is never cheap. I don't think anyone would be willing to pay that. One of these days I'll find some spare stock at work and make some, but until then I'm thinking of trying some out of 90A urethane