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sometimes it won't die at all. Even for a couple of days even. But sometimes it will give me hell to even start her up and when i do it might take 10 min for it to die again. It makes driving the car extremely uncomfortable knowing at some time the car may staal, just like the other day where...

we all have or experienced the faulty CPS wiring problem but my question is pretty simple. Is it the clip that causes the connection problem or is it more internal like inside the actual CPS? becuase sometimes when my car dies on the road i simply pop the hood, undo the clip, clip it back in...

alright so i already received excellent advice as to how to tune my car, but one thing that i'm not certain with is tuning with the Vf signal. I know it'll range from 0-5v, and that 0 volts means it is running rich and 5 volts means that it is running lean....at idle and when my car is at...

i have my throttle points at 69% and 70%. I did do the Vf test before, but only at idle. I did not drive around town with my volt meter attached. So basically, i should jump the VF1 and E1 ports and drive around town keeping my throttle under 69% to see what my ECU is doing?? if i'm...

one day i set my Fuel pressure and my S-AFC pretty good where i was getting consistent 10.5-11.5 A/f ratio numbers. But today with the exact same values plugged in i was running LEAN...like 12.5-13.5 Why does it ALWAYS do this to me?? i used the same gear to test it out, it is about 10...

so i messed around with my CPS and my coil pack wiring....my car has life now! thanks guys.

well i tried checking codes again and i get a code 12...it could be 21, but that doesn't make sense since it is related to the O2 sensor. I'm thinking that perhaps my wiring of my S-AFC somehow disconnected at my splice to my ECU harness.

fuses are all good...that's the first thing i checked.

can you advise me what the +12 feed is?? I really want to get my car out on the road tomorrow, especially after a crippling winter like we had this year.

ok maybe i didn't do my test correctly, but i think it did......i cranked my car for about 5 seconds and then i got out and checked my guage on my FPR....it was about 38 PSI with the vacuum line on, BUT it shouldn't matter because there is no vacuum to be had without the car running correct?? so...

i don't think it's a spark issue....I know what the walbro sounds like and it definetly DIDN"T turn on when i had my key to "ON" before trying to start it.....but when i jumped b+ and Fp, i can hear it no problem....just doesn't turn off unless i turn the key to "OFF" or remove the jumper.

ok so i jumped Fp and B+ in the diagnostic box and i can hear my fuel pump. What does this mean?

so i tried starting my car just right now after a couple months of winter. All i did to it over the winter was an HID installation so nothing drastic. Right before i stored it i did my fuel system swap lexus/580cc/walbro/FPR/Apex-i S-AFC and i put MAYBE 100 km on it. Here's the thing....i...

updates?

mine smells too... but i have a DDP, charcoal removed, and my A/C removed so there is a nice big hole in the firewall where the hardlines used to run into the cabin...and this hole is right by the turbo/downpipe.

looks fantastic bro....IMO i think the more stock you keep it, the more you'll sell. By that i mean if everything becomes PnP, like the CSI, TPS and all that it will sell like hotcakes because personally that is the thing the keeps me from getting a FFIM. I will definetly keep an eye on this.

i still am having trouble tuning my car....i have the basic ct-26/lexus/580cc/walbro/apex-i. I cannot no matter what i do get my AFRs at idle to stay put. It always fluctuates from like 14.4-16.0. It never stays still. Is this becasue it's a piggyback system and not a standalone??

i'll do a simple rundown of my mods that matter..... -lexus AFM (no adjustable screw) -580 cc injectors -AFPR -walbro -PLX wideband -J tube removed -K&N -2.5" hardpipes -FMIC -blitz BOV -Apexi S-afc so anyway i *think* i have my base pressure at 20-25 PSI with the line ON. I have...

when i recieved my PTE injectors, they were a bit long so included were 3 washers to shim the fuel rail. I had that exact same problem until i used the washers.

yea the engine was rebuilt a while ago with a new OEM HG and ARP bolts torqued to 80 ft-lbs.