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Thats what I don't get, why does everyone on this site try to make a luxo barge into a sports car? I don't get it, maybe its because they are extremely super cheap and say "Supra". But you can enjoy them as the oddball they are, they don't have to be gutted chasing the dream of speed, they can...

But the soarer never came with the 2jzgte and this motor is gte and does not appear to ever have been swapped over to gte. Maybe it was a possibility that the GTE was going to go into the soarer, or it was left over block from the ge in times of shortage. Man, I really hope the internals are gte!

Thanks, epoxied cracks on coil stalks, used 1" heat shrink to wrap them, it works!

Thanks hvyman. Been searching google since this post and it deff seems that the coils are the first to look at with my situation. Is there anyway to test these coils aside of looking for obvious cracks?

I just got my swap up and running. The car runs fine, throttles up to rpm cut fine (clutch pushed in), NSF wire has been cut, but anytime I go to boost the car seems to drop a cylinder or two, misfiring and a lack of power with no CEL. This is stressing me out to say the least... Any ideas?

GD, I will get these number up sometime, been so busy with the swap....

Its the unicorn of 2JZ's, I should paint the block in sparkles! :biglaugh:

Have you seen anther block like this? The third set of mounting holes would position the motor higher in the engine bay with an already tall motor, where the thinking maybe a 2jzge truck? As far as I am aware, the 2jz only came in the supra or the aristo in japan back when there was no VVTI...

I am really hoping this turns into a group effort man hunt. I am very curious about what this is, and if any other blocks out there exist like this one. What I really want to know is, what was the vehicle Toyota planned to use the extra mounting locations on!

Yah, its almost like it may have been some kind of prototype block, those third mounts would have actually raised the motor higher...

My 2JZGTE non VVTI block is from an Aristo as far as I know, but know one seems to be able to understand why I have 3 areas to move my motor mounts on this motor. I am trying to identify what is different about this motor?

By all means guide me in the right direction, all my thoughts have been based off of reading articles that stated the JDM ceramics where good for 17-18 PSI and produce close to 400hp BPU. Any insight as to what you guys think is appreciated.

I do also have an safc 2 that I have never used, still not sure if I will be using it. If I can't find the Greddy, is the SFS Boost Cut Control Device a suitable replacement?

Thanks, have the wideband and walbro already from my 7m setup. I just read the BCC was discont, must have been false information to sell the SFS Boost Cut Control Device, since it states it on their page. *edit* Just Checked DM again, and do not see it available, maybe I should just call up...

Thanks for the heads up! I will obviously be checking for shaft play ect, and if they are junk, well good thing good jdm twins are cheap at least. Swap is costing too much so jdm twins are my only current option. Now then, obviously EMS is best but way too much for this build, and both you...

I have ordered an Aristo motor, and have ordered all the parts for the swap so far (waiting on the motor still) except a fuel cut device. I have read and read some more, and know that the Greddy BCC is better than the HKS FCD. I also realize that the Greddy is discontinued and the replacement...

Don Culbertson (DON on cs.com) and Sean Pease (Junkie on cs.com) in Everett, WA very long standing and trustworthy members did all the engine work, and stated * Rebuilt bottom end – all new OEM Toyota lower end bearings – new OEM Toyota rings No, there was no rod knock, this was a...

No, I think they may have wore off. But they do still say Taiho on them, so far the only numbers I have seen on them Toyota said was a date code on the bearing. Turbo Habenero, the pistons are also OEM Toyota, the motor I kept all OEM Toyota down to the oil filter and even all belts on the...

Ok, well my crank has never been machined, but would a select fit 3# bearing be the same size as another select fit #3 bearing? So I should be able to get measurments from the way that bearing fits by using other select fit bearings as needed?

For Clunk in the rear, check your universal joint first, thats the sound they make when bad, if thats fine than diff...