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With enough force, it may pop the JB weld away. Any reinforcement shouldn't be necessary, unless there is a problem causing the metal box to bend. A bolt rusted to the metal sleeve inside the rubber bushing would do that. You can try an exercise the bolt by jacking up that wheel and loosening...

New member paul22 It's pointless to reply to a thread from 2017. Whatever happened, they have solved it by now.

Thanks for doing that. I thought this was for a 7M pulley, my mistake.

Put the pulley back together to see if it still has enough reach from the front without touching the side extension. It may require cutting the rubber where it tore.

So you're saying the Amazon tool you ordered, in the link provided, fit properly? The bolts were long enough and had the correct thread dimensions, etc. If that's the case, I'm going to get one as well, because doing it the backyard way does stress the crankshaft a bit as trofimovich posted...

What I have done to remove and install the pulley bolt is to pull up the parking brake more than usual and put it into first gear. I have a 3/4" drive ratchet and I put a piece of pipe over the handle for added leverage to remove it. Putting it on I use a torque wrench. I believe the bolt size...

Are you saying that the rubber insulation that separates the inner and outer metal pieces deteriorated? I have a spare MK3 pulley, but I'm reluctant to part with anything because of scarcity. I see one on eBay for $75 plus $37 shipping and taxes.

We've all been there with these hatch area leaks. That's why I leave that rubber plug below the spare tire slightly ajar so that any water can drain out. Here are some observations. You can lift up the rear hatch gasket to see if you have any rotted out pinch welds (mainly at the bottom)...

Before I put in the urethane bushings in front, and replaced the rear control arm, the alignment shop applied so much force that they blew out several cam boxes, and also tore the rubber in the bushing allowing the cams to spin but no lateral motion. Several of the cams were also out of sync on...

Typically when the cam tabs get bent, the bolt has rusted to the center metal sleeve that goes through the rubber bushing. One way to verify this is to loosen the nut to see if the bolt will slide back and forth. I had both front lower suspension rear adjusting cam bolts and one rear No.1...

The 90915-YZZB2 box says it will fit M-series engine, so should work. When I did a search for this part number I'm finding they are made in Japan, Thailand, and what appears to be a copy made in China or PRC on the filter, so be careful. I can't say any one is better. Here is a list from my...

If your oil pressure is at least 36 psi at 3000 RPM with a warmed up the engine, then you're in good shape as far as the manual says. As long as maintenance was observed during that 100K miles, you shouldn't have any issues. The first time I rebuilt my engine was at 238,000 miles with the...

They got the part number correct for a GE non-turbo, which matches the picture, but you're right it's not a GTE and no intercooler parts either. I've sent a few emails to would-be sellers educating them. The only thing interesting in that lot are the seat belt tensioners. It's almost pointless...

The only issue with that is that after it's cut, they need to be on the same level. The best scenario would be if the front plate were equal or higher than the block before the cut. If the front plate is lower, and after the block is cut still lower, then that would be an issue. There would...

The oil squirters would be overkill for a non-turbo application. They help to cool the bottom of the pistons, which gets hotter in a turbo engine. You could go either way depending on the cost. Something you're going to need to do is plug up the oil feed by the engine serial number for the...

The OEM parts rarely go bad. If yours are still functional, stick with them. All you're going to find on eBay are questionable used parts at exorbitant prices. It appears TrakMotive parts are made in China and distributed worldwide with distribution centers in the US, Canada, and Europe. They...

There are 2 plastic routing clips that attach to the coil pack itself. There is one in front that you can see in my photo, and there's another underneath that is shown in the manual photo. I guess the whole idea of this routing scheme is to reduce the chance of spark induction in adjacent...

Here's a photo of the coil pack set up with the white stamped numbers visible. Left to right 1-6-3-4-2-5. The front row in the wire retaining clip is 1-3-4-2 and the back row is 6-5. Each retaining cap has dots to indicate which coil pack it connects to. I've noticed that they come in two...