Search results

Maintenance. The car was charging, even in this bad of condition. Just not good. And then the nut was froze the rectifier, and the stud on it broke. I found it online. Toyota seems to have corrected their $400 price, back to $120. So I changed it and the brushes as long as it was off. Now...

Crimp,then fill the crimp with solder and heat shrink. You can't use the common butt connectors in auto parts stores. I buy them online. Maybe Figgie or JJ can tell you where to get good ones retail.

Except that the EFI circuit uses parallel power for safety.

If you don't want our goods produced in China, rethink your political votes and commentary. Not you in particular, but for all.

Your splices don't look good. Consider doing it right. Page 6 of 14. Crimp the wires, then fill the crimp with solder. http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h5.pdf

Because it has to be a component failure, and not his work?

That is a marketing scheme meant for hippies and losers that want to remember their youth. You have 3 choices. Base V6 with 300 horse and 13.7 1/4 mile, GT with 400 horse and mid 12's, or supercharged 550 horse GT500. And now it has an aluminum block, removing 150 lbs from the nose. It also runs...

That is what the GM Suburban is for.

It does. The positive side is parallel up to circuit protection. Yep. And they are cheaper even from Toyota than getting a new one. Toyota gets about $600 on a new one. A reman from Toyota is a bit up in the air. Toyota changed the part number on the recitifier and price from $129, to...

JJ wrote a short post about unfreezing the VSV's. You can try.

FMU's were used heavily on the 5.0 Mustang when it had speed density. It is a very rough tune. It was 86'd with the advent of mass air.

That is why apprentices get hourly instead of flat rate.

I don't want one. And neither would all the potential new car buyers in 1990.

When the periodicals liken it to their beloved 3 Series, you know it is good. And Ford wasn't sold by Obama to Islam. How is that for a reason to buy a Ford.

Right turn, right turn, right turn, see, I told you this was the way left.

But is shouldn't have had oil all over it. Don't you agree? Becareful with those K&N. I let mine dry for 12 hours before oilinlg. Then it dries another 12 from the oil itself. And don't over do it. Just cover the pleats, don't fill in the gaps. It will spread out.

Because he is older than dirt.

300 lb/ft? Torque is a function of bore and stroke. Boost is just artificial displacement. You can't do it with 180 cid. 300 hp, maybe with extensive mods that work together and stand alone control.

Calculations are not guesses, this is correct.

It shouldn't need to ever be wiped off.