Ok.. Got all 6 ports done.
Gasket matched the ports, removed the humps between both valve guide humps, then removed the flat spot in the part that separates the valve seats.
Before:
After:
Started eating away at the little hump between both valve guides. First got cylinder 2 then went to 1. Was caught up most of the day so I didn't have the time I would have liked to work on the head.
Ok, got quiet a bit done today. Removed the cams, retainers, springs, valve spring seat, and valve stem seals. Used my die grinder and maybe two cross buffs to clean the combustion area and valve seats.
Used a ton of air intake cleaner followed by some brake parts cleaner to clean the...
Getting ready to do headwork on my 7M and I've been reading not to port match the exhaust manifold to the head. that i'll loose the reversion dam. what is the reversion damn? what do i do? just polish the exhaust side and port the intake?
Heh, doing this from my iPod so you caught me just starting to upload pictures Ian. Yeah, I'm planning on going 1mm larger for the valves but was planning on using stock cams for now.
Ok, took off the intake and exhaust manifolds. Put all the hoses, manifolds (exhaust with ct26) in the supra and took the head to work today. Spent the day cleaning the head. Used some cross buffs to clean up the bottom part of the head. Going to disassemble tomorrow and begin porting the intake...
Ok... I think I have 0.20+ pistons. I was looking for 0.50 7MGTE Pistons and found a site selling NPR Rings for the 86-93 Supra. It specifically said:
This might now be less complicated than I thought. I thought that there where only 0.20+ and 0.40+ pistons and was wondering where to find...
took a look at the top of the 7M blshort block thats sitting in the engine bay and the deck is starting to develope surface rust. I've been throwing idea's around and Im really concidering just dissassembling the short block, getting an unmodified short block to throw my parts into and rebuild...
ok. have 050+ pistons. Ian recommends i over bore the cylinders since i have 60k+ on the motor. Have to save up money now to send the motor to the machine shop. might be a bit befor i update this thread.
not arguing with you Ian. I know that the 7M has to be perfect. Not fond of having to over bore again. This means new pistons? Why do I have to Overbore? Possibilities of the cylinders not being straight? Im just trying to understand. I guess I shoulda reworded my previouse reply...
Just out of curiosity, why go to the next bore size? Befor me it was supposedly running w/o a boost controller at stock boost and no bolt ons for the motor. Motor ran great aside from the valve stem seal leak it started off with.
Going to try to get cylinder #1 measured this afternooon. Get...
whats your opinion of a low hp DD? I was concidering from 400-500hp daily driven.
knew about checking it in different depths in the cylinder but hadn't thought about rotationally. Good tip.
ok... what do you mean by knowing the history of the motor? I know its been rebuilt roughly 60k ago... then again, this is second hand info and kinda why im also tearing appart the motor to verify and fix any problems.
Sounds like i should stay away from a hand held flex hone... or am i mistaken. Used one on the other short block i had rebuilt but not gotten to use. (Nevermind, posted after reply was given.)
What kinda hone would you recommend Ian? A Sunnen? Thinking about getting the torque plate and...
Sunnen? Huh? ok, Explain Ian. I have access to tools from Mac/Matco/Snap On at my dealership and can get creative need be. We had used a flexible hone w/ three stones on it befor to remove deglaze the cylinder but I didn't end up using that short block.
Ok, I was wondering really what a Torque Plate can be used for on a 7M. Haven't been able to find any machine shops down here in the south florida/miami area but have found a place that sells em for the 7M and am concidering getting one If its really needed. My bottom end is already overbored...
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