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I just picked up a Comp 6562, rated for around 730hp, should have good spool characteristics too. Pricey, but a drop in the bucket overall for the project. If you're looking for something on the cheaper side, OEM type turbos (Borg Warner, Holset, etc) can be found easily and relatively cheap...

Well, in the time being, if you need to drive the car, there are some set screws on the throttle body's brackets that can be adjusted to hold the throttle in just slightly enough to keep the car running. If your ISCV is like mine, it may work on occasion, and this "workaround" method will cause...

You sure there aren't any leaks? I popped an intercooler hose off on the way to work once, and it was quite similar to how you describe... loud as hell, but quite slow.

This system would be based on accelerometers within the phone for playing their little games, wouldn't it? Would be neat if it worked, but I think consistency is going to be iffy, not to mention how this isn't the smartest thing to test on public roads haha...

Hook up the turbo to a vent into the interior, blow the hot air into the car. Problem solved, nice and toasty temps under the control of your right foot. :) I feel for ya though man, I've had 3 older Toyotas (Mk2, RA4x Celica, and TE72 Corolla), and none of them have had heat. Makes for fun...

Good post man, I always liked reading stuff like this for some reason...

I would side with Kai here, but you're at least acknowledging that there will be problems with riding that low. Some places (Phoenix valley comes to mind) that I've been, having a car that low isn't a problem at all. Most "real world" places that people live though, have bumps, hills, gutters...

A W58 will, with the proper bellhousing, plus they are easily found/sourced. Not quite as tough as an R154, but depending on how much you plan on doing to the car, it should hold up alright for a while. Not even sure what a W55 is, from a pickup?

You don't get to be this cool without taking a chance now and then, now do ya? :biggrinbo

The proper fix is replacing the ISCV with a new one. When I was pricing this out, the cheapest I found (a 2j variant, not even positive it would have worked) was over $300. The OEM Toyota part was over $700. Unfortunately, like you mention, they are a sealed unit, unlike the 7m. Kinda one of...

Noise levels, most likely. Plus, you know... the rear wheels intruding into the interior of the car, need something to isolate them from the cabin. Not to mention, if they were plastic and you chucked a rock off the rear tires hard enough... Reminds me, I need to look into getting a manifold...

You ordered "bhg lol"? Drive careful friend...

Oooh... low blow man, low blow, but deserved. Well played sir. Gotta admit though, she was kinda sexy from a certain distance. :rofl:

T-clamps perhaps? I remember once upon a time with my 7m's intercooler piping setup, I had t-bolt clamps on it and the threads weren't very hard metal, so they stripped quite easily when tightening. Could be a similar situation.

Old enough to appreciate having owned cassette tapes and remembering when a band had to be truly special to make it in the world AS a band. :)

Will check it out, thanks DT. :)

You're a lefty? THAT explains it... awesome drawing though! I used to doodle, but it never came out that nicely. Could always see it in my head, but rarely could get it out onto paper to my satisfaction....

There are a handful of NA 2jz's that have went the high revving ITB route Nash. Saw a beautiful red widebody Mk4 at SILV 2010, car TOTALLY looked like a turbo car, but then the hood popped... still a great sounding car, and laid down respectable power considering the rear wheels were huge...

Many of the 1j IACV's go bad on us for whatever reason. There are proper fixes to this problem, which are fairly pricey, and then there are workarounds, which, while not a "proper" fix, will hold you over long enough to save up the cash and still be able to drive the car in the meantime. ;)

Fighter jet escorts come with ProEFI? Man, did I buy wrong... :rofl: