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JJ, That fuel cut is for emissions. It shuts off the fuel when the engine is revving down with the throttle plate closed. Look at the test carefully, with the IDL contact forced closed, the fuel cut occurs above 1600 rpm. You don't notice it when you are driving, but if you are slowing down...

The reason for the confusion is that that page shows all 5 sensors. Look at the "MODEL" column and you will figure it out. It breaks all the rules of the usual Toyota EPC. Also the sensor numbering (No. 1, No. 2, etc.) is not consistent with the TSRM adding to the confusion.

Fuel injectors have internal filters. Its standard procedure to replace them when injectors are cleaned/flow tested.

Does anyone know the part numbers of the two engine wire harness clamps that connect to the intake tract. Mine have turned to dust. The EPC lists a bunch of clamps here http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/EPC/MKIII_NATO/291420/8202_6.html but I don't see any way to correlate them with...

Could also be a broken engine mount if its only happening with engine torque. Do you feel the noise in your shifter?

Mine has always worked this way. I believe it to be "working as designed".

Do you have the original Toyota AFM? If so, it is one of the 5 wires that plugs into the AFM. It is not a ground, and grounding it is not going to be a good thing.

light-green/red is the KS signal of the AFM.

To use the dye, you need to clean the engine first, then run it for a few minutes, shut it off and look for the leak. By the way, I found regular untreated Mobil 1 glows olive green under UV, so the die is not really needed if you use Mobil 1. I had a similar leak and it turned out to be the...

Yeah, I heard the ECU only works with an automatic too.

For what it's worth, the Tokiko's have a lifetime warranty.

Consider buying the high temp stuff. The generic stuff goes crumbly pretty fast under the hood.

Only three things can normally make that light go on 1) handbrake 2) low fluid 3) charging system non-operational with ignition on (bulb check) but will also light the charge and bulb failure lamps. Since you've ruled out all of those, then its time to do some wiring checks. Start with the HB...

Strip a short piece of solid 14GA copper household wire. That will conduct alot better than a paper clip.

Mine started leaking, so that is another failure mechanism. I have a spare VSV that I could part with. Send me a PM if interested.

The thermostat is inside the housing with all the sensors. Remove the two bolts and it pulls out. Coolant will need to be drained to replace it.

This thread will help you out. Nice labelled photo of all the sensors. Have you checked your thermostat? If its stuck the car can run cold and stay in warmup mode indefinitely. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14844

Sorry to hijaak, but those wheels you have are awseome. What are they?

The self test for the ABS sounds like a hissing noise as you go forward after a start. Only thing is it should do it hot or cold.

How about oil leaking down past the bolt head/washer? Check to see if the washer has a nick or if the head where the washer sits has any damage.