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Heat shouldn't be an issue when you're running a more efficient header (the air will reach the sensor quicker and thus will have had less time to cool) and it's ceramic coated (keeps the heat in). There are situations where this could be a problem, but I think it's unlikely here... especially...

The O2 signal oscillates normally, it's not the easiest thing to test for 100% accuracy. Check your ground strap and check the gauge wiring. Personally I'd run a tap trough the O2 bung and clean out the threads for a good connection... they should've known better then to just spray over that...

A definite possibility. I always forget that that comes up pretty often. Good suggestion.

No way in hell you're maxing out the injectors. My money's on the gauge. NB meters are worthless... it's not just a joke, they really don't tell you crap. I presume you've tested the gauge's wiring for breaks and poor connections? If you want to check it use a DMM with a peak and hold mode...

I can't really help with diagnosing the EGR system, but have you also checked the TPS alignment and the ISC? You sure there are no other vacuum leaks? Sorry I can't be of any more help, at least with a bump someone with more info may pop in. ;)

Definitely the O-NR error.... next to the head gasket it's the MOST common problem with the MKIII.

I haven't taken a GTE 89+ lamp failure module apart, but it is possible that a solder trace or jumper may have burned up. This is common enough in the other models I've looked at. The CHMSL is powered separately from the other brake lamps. I'd start with disassembling the unit (don't forget...

A breather on the ISC is fine. <----ONLY if you are running speed density! Benchwarmer is right. IDC's flat out suck, especially when combined with old wiring. Either solder or get some quality crimps and the proper crimping tools for the job. I've had several friends and acquaintances come...

Getting ahead of yourself, aren't ya? tisk, tisk... Personally, I'd undo all the extras and focus on getting the system running reliably first. If you're not so inclined then post up your settings, in your own thread. We don't know that this guy's problem is related. cml61386, did you try to...

Yeah and? Get a piece of pipe, put a nipple on it and use silicone couplers on each end to mate it. ;)

You can get to it from underneath. It's easier to deal with if you pull out the driver's seat though. EDIT: It's a small black box, not unlike the tail lamp failure box. It'll be labeled too, but you won't see that until you've got it out.

Under the dash. Above the steering column just to the right, IIRC.

You might consider the possibility that there's a reason none of the bigger, more respected companies ever developed a "better" intake for our cars. A search will find you all kinds of info on this topic. The synopsis: 1) if you MUST have a different filter place a piece of pipe on the AFM...

Sounds to me like the poster doesn't know the differences between a 7M-GE and a 7M-GTE... and it sounds like he's trying yo drop everything right on top of the GE. trub, you really need to read this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34560

If you're using the update utility you don't need the batch file. Doesn't matter if the new firmware is the only file in the directory or if you've got the whole collection. From what I've read, the main changes to 5.11 (since 5.08) are related to timing control... BUT, given how much time Bob...

Yeah, R7 would need to be disconnected for timing monitoring. Unless you're running a GM MAF it shouldn't make a different, but I wanted to be sure no one was messing around with the board and possibly pulled the wrong resistor. BTW, timing monitoring does NOT work if you are running a GM...

Log looks decent. Might increase the TPS Enrichment (could be the MAP Enrichment that needs it) from what I saw in one spot in the log. Can't really give much else in the way of suggestions without seeing a bin. How's the throttle response? So I take it you're running a GE throttle body with a...

Ugh.... see my sig Dummy. No. That's "due" not "do". If your throttle is reaching 90º and the TPS only shows 3v you could always use ETPS in the newer versions of the MAFT Pro firmware to provide a WOT voltage of 3.48... I'm not sure what the ECU views as WOT, I'm sure it's actually...

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81502&highlight=heater+control+valve

Can't blame a guy for trying... I'm saving up for tacos. Ok... so what am I still missing from my diagrams page? Timing Monitoring, Boost Control... anything else?