Flub: next time I'm buying tooling I'll get a steel blade and see what I can do!
Personally I won't touch much in the bowl just smooth it out and blend any edges.
The only place where it's going to make a difference is on the short turn radius anyway and it's already pretty well done from...
Natan: Even with the flarenut wrench mine was "FT" ;)
(it's a scientific torque setting "fuc**ng tight")
I always wonder why things that are almost impossible to get to are done up so damn tight!
If you're using a 1 or 2JZ it's pretty well a bolt in and the boxes are used behind many high HP cars and seem to be damn strong!
(Just watched an episode of Rides where they put one behind a blown aluminium 427 Ford V8)
Guess it comes down to what your wallet can stand before it explodes...
14mm isn't it? with a 19 or 17 on the end of the filter from memory!
(I could be very wrong here;) )
You forgot to mention either ear plugs or a rain hat !!
JT: With any luck my new head will be here today so I'll be able to give you that measurement, as for the block not sure if I've ever seen specs for deck height! (Usually measured from the Main bearing saddle to the deck)
Toy88T: That slice is right through the middle of the combustion chamber and both ports!
It's a 4 valve head so the ports siamese.
What you can see in the pics is half a port at the divider.
I'll take some more pics a little later today and DrJ will have some high res ones on Mk3Tech...
Dead: There's a bunch of pics in my rebuild thread and descriptions of what it took to make it fit.
It's one of the best easiest swaps I've done as everything is in the right place.
Can't comment on how they'll work with your spring choice but I've had a set of Koni Yellows in mine since 97 with the only failure being when I bottomed it with both tanks full and the bump rubber split and smashed the shock piston into the bottom killing it!
Replaced the bump rubbers with...
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