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You're welding in a new wheel well and quarter panel, and are shying away from dropping the subframe?? I would drop the subframe simply for the ease of control arm access, and to check for other issues. Many subframes have cracks over the nose of the diff, and almost all subframe bushings are...

My first car was a '77 Datsun 280z. That motor/ tranny are bulletproof. If you want reliability in an older Japanese sports car, that's the one I would suggest. Parts are cheap, but finding a good 280Z that isn't a rust bucket is tough for $4,000. If you could though, It's a nice car, and will...

I bought the Megan EZ street's you mentioned. I can't speak for their feel or longevity, though. I have yet to drive on them. I bought them because the spring rates were softer than most coilovers, because I'm using the car for daily driving as well.

Looks good. Now you have me scared about my probes! Luckily, my car is down for upgrade as well, and I also plan on going to Wiseco's.

The diagnostic plug is the port right next to the fuse box. Jumper T and E1.

Very nice. I just powdercoated my rotor hats and brake calipers, and also plan to wrinkle finish my manifold and valve covers. And if I can get a similar price to yours on zinc plating, I might have all my engine fasteners redone as well.

Small end up, big end down. :biglaugh: Sorry. I don't really know if there is a wrong way to install them, as far as what side should be facing forward or rearward.

The swap from 7MGE to 7MGTE is the most popular mod to the Supra, and is covered in a billion threads. I see you have 5 posts, welcome to Supramania. You will find every answer to every question you can imagine in here. In fact, it's very rare that someone comes up with a completely new...

Looks good. Get it together, and let's hear it.

^^ 1. is correct, except that voltage goes from 9 volts to 12+ volts. 2. is the idle-up vac line. It's not for progressive power steering, but rather to bump idle when you turn the steering wheel, as the pump will put a large load on the engine. 3. is either the egr or fuel vsv 4. and 5.- wish I...

There's a masturbation joke in there somewhere, but I'm not going in after it...

Not too much new here. Went over to my friend's house this weekend, and he helped me to powdercoat by rear calipers red, and my rotor hats black. Decided after disassembling the calipers, that I would go ahead and buy a couple of rebuild kits for them, as one of the slider boots had a tiny tear...

When you're done working on the head, you should recheck the valve lash regardless, because if it's wider than spec, you get a lot of tapping noise from the head.

Live and learn. The old ones are already out. just gotta buy some new stock to weld in.

AArgh! I started assembling the rear subframe today, by installing the arms, diff, and hubs. Problem is- I soon relized that the halfshafts were going to hit the new upper subframe braces! SO, I had to cut them back out. Now I'll have to weld in some new ones, slightly outboard from the original...

Very nice. I'd like to hear about the paint products you used.

+1 for ditching that bumper. :) You can disable the security system by bridging the two wires that lead to the factory hood pin.

Looking good. Did you decide not to go with the Turbo A duct front?

http://www.bicperformance.com/products.htm

:) Yay me. Now I'm looking for some axles to show up...