I've been told that spraying everything down and into the oil passages with WD-40 will dispace any water and flush it down to the pan where it can be drained...
still have to do the oil change and start up cranking until you get pressure though, so dunno how much it would actually help...
EDIT: beat me to it ^^
cylinder 3 and 6...
the metal part that actually seals around the cylinder is badly deformed outwards on both of them...
looks typical for a stock HG with the stock headbolt torque...
oh, don't get me wrong, where a quality tool is needed, I buy it...
got a really nice set of pro screwdrivers from craftsman (that they no longer make damnit) that just plain rock...
Mac tools is owned by stanley IIRC... and I don't use 12 point sockets...
new oild pump drive bearings as well....which aren't fun
solvent and gun bore brushes...
I found if you pull the water pump off, you can REALLY get in there with a hose and clean it out...
wrong, take the top off and go drive, and then drive with the top on. The top is under loads all the time.
if the drip rails could be put into the design, it would eliminate the main leak area. BUT, the inside cloth headliner won't be able to be attached and I'd be worried about the edges...
woooot, boost leak said on the first page...
I know, I have hardpies and was in denial, until I found the damn leak and sealed it...
only issue with boosted cars IMHO...
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