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OR, you could have moved the pivot ball on the motor's actuator arm in about 1" inboard, and not have to mess with the rod at all. This changed the distance that my headlights moved by half, and they didn't slam. I plan to redo my headlight system after my engine work, so that i can swap from...

They fit without mod, except for injector #1 in my case. I had to: A: Remove the small bracket on the fuel rail, that's held in by one screw. B: Slightly dremel about 1mm of aluminum from the fuel rail. Both mods took about 2minutes. Here is the entire thread that I had made...

No, it's a no-name brand. If a replacement can't be found, I'll just buy another flywheel.

Well, that was a bit messy. Separated the tranny from the engine, and found that I had really chewed into the flywheel. It's a replaceable insert, but I dunno how hard it's going to be to get one. Gotta start google'ing.

Finally getting around to pulling the old engine and tranny:

...in the front and rear axle/suspension sections? wait- was that a trick question?

Where do you work??

Got another few bits today: failsafe Tstat, ac expansion valve, and blower motor resistor: Also, brand new a/c suction and discharge lines:

That's where i bought mine too. Hey Enraged- did you get 2 O-rings in your pack? I got one for the outer 'collar' of the cps, and one slightly larger one. Dunno what it's for.

Or honestly, a junk yard or post a wanted thread here. People will have one for you, vs. $20 for the new dealership cost.

So...I'm reviving this thread to just verify, that NOTHING has been made that we can buy so far. is this correct?

Hmm, those two items don't seem to be for a stock non-turbo setup... Have plans changed yet again? :)

Damnit. Didn't know that. Oh well, problem solved now. I brought my parts to a local place . I paid $150 for a pile of stuff to be done. That's a steep price, but considering that they had to prep all the pieces, and then string them all to wire, it wasn't too bad. Plus, their min. order was...

www.twosrus.com

The head that I was going to run had serious erosion around the water jackets, and I decided to toss it. Like CyFi6 said, make sure the erosion doesn't reach as far as the water jacket seal. The only thing clutch-wise I might suggest is to consider replacing your throwout bearing's conical...

You may be right about the restriction, but initially I won't be going for massive power, just 350-400. If I find that I wanna go higher later, I may have to reconsider the use of the FPD perhaps. But since I'll already be AN6 right to it, it'll just be a matter of swapping out to a different...

LOL. You're the one that referred me there a couple years ago. But no, I didn't get it from them. I realize that the pic of that bolt makes it look like it has a conical washer, but it's actually just a flat washer at the base of a standard, stainless socket head bolt.

Ah yes- absolutely right. I forgot about that detail, and it makes all the difference in the world, because once that washer hits the inner wheel well, it puts a side load on the bolt and wedges it.

I say just put some jumper cables on, turn the key and scream "Check it, BITCHES!" but that's just me. Your mileage may vary.

Yeah, I usually have to tap it out with a hammer.