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Huh? I feel like im on the outside of an inside joke.

Lol. Um, i dont think i meant to say all that, but it sounds good. I really had no problem just using the original cooling pipe, but a couple people suggested a cooler. I didnt know about the steering failures in racing events, but i dont plan on racing this car at all. Not familar with Dex 6.

I have a craftsman wrench, and found that i can set it to XX ft-lbs, but it'll not click till its way beyond the desired torque setting. Torque wrenches do go out of calibration. Luckily, i figured it out before stripping anything vital, and replaced it.

Lol. You started this thread on the 31st of May; waited till the 28th of June to mention the ecu's fault codes. Information is a two-way street, or conversely, garbage in = garbage out. Glad you got it fixed.

I just ran a cooler because, well... I could. Most OEM coolers are simply a loopy tube that allows the fluid to cool a bit before returning to the reservoir. I figured, what the hell.

Today, I wandered around the junkyard, snooping under the hoods of nearly every make and model. I was shopping for a coolant resevoir, an oil cooler for the power steering, a vacuum cannister for my cruise control(na), and a power steering resevoir. I hate the turbo ps resevoir, as it blocks...

Glad to hear that it is still in one piece, and in good hands.

So did they give you a dyno sheet for the second set of pulls?

This too, yes. You drove it for a bit, sloshing the jelly and the rust in the tank around, Then parked it. Crud settles back to the bottom of the tank(fuel strainer), and gets clogged up the next time you start it. This is a conceivable scenario.

Your problem isnt the condenser.

14" chop saw. And most of those welds you see in that last pic were already in the tubing, not my work.

Very neat. Great job. NowHow do you have the plate held down- Did you add another 'threaded' socket towards the center of the head(like the one normally found at the back)?

Made it a bit longer today. Won't be finished till later in the week; I need the piping expanded slightly to join with the flex section. Then I can weld on the 3.5-3 transition, and the Vband. Plus, it's just spot welded. Can't weld it up till I get a tank of trimix gas.

They dim a little bit, then when they get close to minimum voltage, they flicker and shut off completely.

So...Disable it. Just bridge the two wires together at the hood latch, and it can never arm.

What bothers me, is that you can't swing a dead cat on Ebay without hitting a sub-$30 shifter for a mkIV. Are they top notch? Prolly not, so spend $100, and get a nice one-aka- 1/3 the price of a decent mkIII shifter.

Thats the biggest split between hp/tq that ive ever heard of- and 690 ft-lbs out of an sp61??? Wow.

More stainless... A first attempt at the upper downpipe. Also, I have two Vibrant stainless O2 bungs to install at the top. Unfortunately, The wastegate will be so close to the downpipe, that I can't make use of the super-cool Vibrant flex bellows, so I guess I'll try to send it back.

What colors did you end up buying? Oh- Forgot to mention; Go buy the Radio Shack 16-pin sockets for them. They come in 2-packs. You clip them in half, and solder THEM into the boards, instead of the displays themselves. Makes it WAY easier if you ever need/ want to swap them, and it spaces...

Well, since he is at home, I guess he doesn't have to go big. Go 7mgte if your power goals are 250-400hp, go 1/2J if you plan on making a monster out of it, and modding alot of stuff.