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Sounds like you're running off battery power to me...and your battery is about dead. Charge your battery, have it and the alternator checked.

Ain't that the Truth JJ ;) Besides, the particles in Restorer are large enough to feel if you rub some between your fingers. If your oil filter is doing its job, it will filter those particles out...likely to the point of clogging the filter.

Brad - any home testing kit will be inconclusive if it is based on TBN. Like I said in our PM's, TBN is affected by numerous things in the motor...blow by, condensation, coolant in the oil to name a few. To do a valid test based on oil analysis you would first have to have a track record on...

Another snake oil...all this will do is thicken up your oil and slow down the flow to the parts that need it the fastest (and the most). Namely your bearings and cams. Don't buy off on the hype on this kind of stuff guys. A good syn oil will out perform this crap every time. According to...

Clip's right...it's a person that defuses bombs :biglaugh: And on some of the cars I've seen here...it's accurate!

LOL!!! :evil5:

You need to measure the cylinder bore per pages EM-74 & 75 in the TRSM: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EM&Page=74 If the cylinders are in spec, a hone is all you need and std size pistons will be fine. I do highly recommend you get the crank journal micro...

You do realize that a MHG requires both the block and head to be decked to a very smooth surface (HKS, Greddy - 30 RA or less, Cometic - 50 RA or less). When you say "good enough", the both the block/head need to meet these specs. Since it looks like you are going to use NA pistons, the...

Before you go for the re-bore, check the cylinder specs. Just might be able to get by with a re-hone, std dia pistions and call it a day ;) A re-build has always been in my mind something that depends on the goals of the owner. 300 HP is easy on the stock components...they will actually...

The ground for the ignitor is crap...this is a much better way: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=857

Kai - since you are going to do a stock re-build, it should be a piece of cake. Let me know and I'll share my limited knowledge on the subject ;)

LOL...nah! Rod knock is one of the only cases (like Kai's) where I'd say to stick with the heavier oil...it will put off the inevitable for maybe just a bit ;) Now valve train noise...different story...you want the oil up there a quick as you can.

A major difference between early rod knock and valve train tick ;)

You need to get the valves that are under back into spec...I agree that it's likely not the cause of the noise, but that clearance is too tight. Check the clearances on the cam shaft caps. Make sure the intake caps (marked I1, I2, etc) and exhaust caps (marked E1, E2, etc) are in the right...

^^^ I agree. Did you check the valve shim clearances before you installed the head?

Sure you can ;) Otherwise known as Freon 12 or Freon 134...refrigerants used in car A/C. They happen to be good degreasers too.

If you use a trichloroethylene type cleaner commonly found in carb, brake and this type AFM cleaner, it will craze the optical sensor, emitter, or mirror in the AFM. You will need a Freon based electronics cleaner and vapor clean the AFM. The problem is most (if not all) of this type was...

^^^ Check this ;) Base timing can cause a problem like this...especially if it is off by a big amount. Set it per the TRSM: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=IG&Page=20 You MUST short terminals TE1 and E1 to set timing accurately. Gap your plugs as...

Do not use this on the 7M AFM. The problem with cleaners like this is the chemical will cloud the optical sensor...it FUBAR's the electronics.

LOL...good for you man. Don't you love it when it turns out to be a simple thing ;) And brovo for double checking your work. Everybody makes mistakes...you were smart enough to catch it!