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Not to mention i love the color.

that is absolutly titties

and i also re torqed the studs 3 times on the stand 1 week apart. to 90 ftlbs

so i am not 100 % on this but i belive my head is leaking oil, in the fron on the intake side. at number 1, car has arp studs and metal gasket.. i have never heard of having to retorq arps before, but has this ever happend to any on on here? this is the best pic i could get

yes this is tru chaser has the las 2 cut. so not a chaser for sure, take a pic straight on of the ecu plugs

i would do s pump before u start making boost. the cold start is prob iac. bad.. the small missfire may be timming? mine did the same. do u have adjustable cam gears? ck to see that motor is in time

how is it you had a 850 motor laying around?? is that a supra its going into.? when u get closer i may be able to help i learned alot about the bmw electronics during my swap, had to understand it it get the toyota working properly.. the mostimportant thing was that bmw switchs grounds via ecu...

i also think a austin heli would be very bad ass. something like this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:1960_Austin_Healey_Sprite.jpg

thats bad ass.. i almost had my hands on a datsun rodster.. but it slipped thru my hands i am still butting up the harness,after next summer motor is coming back out, going to wire tuck and build new intake.

5 speed.. who would want a auto

ill go 1st i know its not a supra.. but moves like one!

yeah we were laughing bout that 243 when i was torqing it.. i was affraid to break something

the front. so you can get it from the front? do u have to drop pan too? i will be taking cams out to retoq head. i will also be degreeing them in at the same time. if all i have todo is take off timing set i will do it all at same time

so when i did my swap i changed every seal but the crank seal. i just flat forgot. so now it leaks. whats the easiest way to change crank seal? and does the crank have to come out todo that?

what kind of boost controller are u using? a bad seal at the header to turbo may be passing enough thru it to stop the spin at a idle.. but it would have to be big hole. maybe crack ing header.. but it would lean out badly under boost.. have u tested the boost controller or gauge to make sure...

no i understand the rich run at idle is from the cams.. but my idle air is working only when it wants to.. and when it does work it it only opening a very little bit not all the way. i used a ohm meter on a bench and itohmed out very high.. as far as i know i should not see over 30 ohms on...

does it idle or cruise normal still?? is it just a under boost problem? take the cold side of the turbo off ck for play in the shaft. may be sloppy and binding

yeah i have them adjusted , the problem with messing with the idle screw is every time u do u have to re calibrate tps.. im working on a few crazy ideas. if i get one that looks good and works good ill post it up as a fix

yeah i can hold the gas and keep it going after its stars to warm up its good.. i have a 7 m that i am hacking into to see if it will work. i got it to fit the location, , the problem is that the plunger on a 7m goes out to open up and the 1 j goes in.. not that appling to the eye. but i think i...

so what are the proper fixs? i have not been able to find anyone online selling them? and other than living with it or blocking it off for a walkaround , what other fixs are their. i am going to go soak the inside of it with atf see if it will start working again, but i ohmd it out and its no...