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I sure hope so. I'm not all that interested in buying something bigger than my SSQV. The 60 trim wheel is oversized for the size of the exhaust turbine on the CT26, but meh. Just for a given set of hardware in the CHRA, the bigger wheel is under more stress, and more prone to surge...

Meh. There are other ways to help that out. The NA cams DO bring the power band down, which results in less peak HP, but a broader power band. It does depend what you want out of the car. The NA cam doesn't so much "fall on it's face" at high RPMs as simply not being as well optimised for...

Yeah, the elbow isn't easy to remove from the turbo while it's on the car. (I just did it, and it took me a VERY long time to get that one nut off.) Much easier (Though still not EASY per se) to take the downpipe off of the elbow. The turbo to manifold nuts aren't that bad. A racheting...

That really sucks. I'll bet they not only re-used the factory head bolts, but torqued 'em to the factory spec of 58 ft-lbs. As mentioned, ARPs are 14mm 12 point heads. The factory are 10mm allen heads. Find your receipt. You might have trouble anyway unless you had those head bolts...

Well, while I know that the lift on SBC/BBC cams is (typically) greater, from what I recall, 5000 RPM was a big INCREASE in redline on those, so I'm not sure about the suitability of the springs for carst aht are intended to run at 6500+ RPM. I remember a lot of guys with the V8s having valve...

The more of this thread I read, the more I'm glad that I bought the 2.5" IC pipe set from DriftMotion. Now I've got to learn to weld Aluminium, so that I can get rid of a lot of the silicone couplers that I'm going to have. (I just think it'll look 100% better with some of the visible...

What he said... Except if you got the eBay generic kit, then you can probably just use spare pipe instead of cutting yours. If you don't weld, you can get stuff for brazing aluminium pretty well, too.

I think the point is that 3.73 is short, and that 1st gear does become useless. With a taller diff, this extends first gear, so that it starts becoming useful again. Or, it could be used to swap in a V160 6 speed transmission with a JZ block. It extends top speed on the car for those who...

Toyota used the 8" ring gear in a few vehicles, including (IIRC) some of the diesel Land Cruisers. Those will have taller gears in 'em. The trick there will be getting one fo the 4 pinion ring gears. You can keep the pinion and LSD setup that's in your current diff so long as you get the 4...

Heh. A good part of my job involves tech support. Part of which is to realise when the user is lying, wrong or otherwise giving you completely bogus information. (If I had a dollar for every time I heard "But I DID that!" or "Well, I didn't do that!" I'd be on track for early retirement...

You're a braver man than I. I'd never leave the hood on. :)

IIRC, the fan resistor does not actually come into play on the high speed setting. There's a separate circuit that bypasses the resistor block entirely, or so I remember seeing when I rebuilt my resistor pack. (Yes, I rebuilt it. It's not too big a deal to make a wirewound resistor) There...

Best of my knowledge, the ONLY situation where locked brakes might stop better is piled snow or sand. However, if you WANT to skid so that you can throw the car around in unusual attitudes, then I guess you might want to lock 'em up, but for the application of driving as fast as possible...

I have an '87T wire harness/engine under my hood, but it's freakin' cold out there to be poking about under the hood at the moment. According to the TSRM, the wiring should be: Pin 1 B-R (Black w/ red stripe) Pin 2 L-G (Blue w/ green stripe) Pin 3 LG-R (Light green w/ red stripe) Pin 4...

I've done both. Certain cars, it's easier to leave the transmission in. It's ALWAYS easier of you don't have a load leveller, even if you have to move the transmission to get to the bolts. With the load leveller, IMO, it'a s no-brainer. Pull both.

Can't tell you about the touring version, but I have the hyper version, and it's fairly quiet... Until you get into the boost, that is.

If your aftermarket amp has "high level inputs" these are intended to take a speaker level source and convert it. With these, it's a done deal. Alternately, you can buy line level adapters. These have wiring pins on one side, and a femalr RCA jack on the other. These are used to convert a...

The TDDS system has switches in the key cylinders. These are what it uses to disarm the system. These switches get dirty eventually, and start becoming less reliable, so it becomes possible to unlock the car without disarming the system. Of course once the system goes off, it won't let you...

I found that Subaru video enlightening too. I'm not sure, but I think I'm getting some of that surge sound now with my stock BOV and stock CT26. (Maybe the BOV isn't working so good?) I guess I should get my IC pipes and that HK$ SSQV on there as soon as I can...

I've heard that you give it about 500 miles, with the important thing being not to use the cruise control. Allow the engine RPM to vary a bit. The biggest thing with "break-in" is seating the piston rings and bearing surfaces. Maybe replacing that assembly lube with regular oil. During...