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Ok, I am assuming that the tranny in question is a R154 (turbo supra) tranny. The toyota OEM numbers for the seals are as followes: Trans front (bearing retainer) = 9031132012 Trans rear (extension housing/tailshaft housing) = 9031140001 The numbers on the drawings in the post above...

Yes, Chrome-moly steel is commenly used for light-weight steel flywheels because of is exceptional strength to weight ratio. Like GrimJack said, JUN makes theres out of it, to add to that, ACT makes Chrome-moly steel flywheels and others.

The only seals that are envolved generally if pulling out the tranny is the front seal (inside the bearing retainer) and the rear seal (tail shaft housing) where the driveshaft goes in at. also at the same time, its a good idea to change out the rear main seal on the motor. Front Rear

actually, if it were me, I'd run 235/45/17 tires. If you are worried about speedo reading errer, dont; as machenical speedo's are not very accuate to begin with, second is the maximum load carring avalible for the given tires. 225/50/16 (stock) tires average between 1350 and 1400lbs both...

Dont really know how you would go about doing it, But I would damn sure buy a couple if they were avalible. (one to use and one to add to my collection as I collect Zippo's for the hell of it)

offset alone doesn't tell you much as two wheels of different widths with the same offset will fit differently, but typically yes a 42mm offset will fit a supra fine. look at my sig. the wheels on my car in my sig are 17X8 in the front and 17X9 in the rear and both have a 42mm offset.

Ian, thats a good idea, but like I said, the more that I think about it, I dont think that it is a casting issue, but actually a tooling issue. the part that doesn't make sence is that is that all the heads that I have ever seen have releafs cut into the housings but the diameter is not the same...

The problem that he is having is an issue on some cars. Like I said in my last post, I think that toyota had changed the casting at somepoint and made the housing that the bucket rides in thicker. I have installed several sets of studs in different 7M's and some fit and some dont. Adjuster, I...

I have had that same problem on a few cars that I have worked on including my own. I think that there was an insignificant casting change at some point that made the outside of the valve bucket housings thicker and therefor no clearance to put the nuts on. What I cam up with to solve this...

Also, just to add to it, once you went to install them, you would find that neither will fit in the wrong spot. Here is the basic dimensions of the front and rear rotors.

the fronts are larger. front rotor diameter = 300mm (11.811" or ruffly 11 7/8") rear rotor diameter = 291mm (11.456" or ruffly 11 1/2") That should help

year doesn't matter, all are a front rear split. mainly front wheel drive cars have a diagonal split due to being front heavy. you need to bleed the car right (pass) rear, left (driver) rear, right (pass) front and left (driver) front in that order. At first thought, typically rears do not...

if you weren't able to find them at sears, most hardware stores like lowe's and home depot carry them also. on a different not, Hows the Scranton / Wilkes-Barre area doing? I just noticed where you are at. Its a small world. I used to live in Susquahanna and Thompson area right up the road...

its not the gear drive that is the issue at all, its the profile of the cams in FE motors that are sopositly a problem. Even then, I dont think that they are that bad. The stock heads and cams have the flow capability of around 600HP for the 1UZ based on flow bench numbers.

someone did something screwy then. I could be wrong, but as far as I know, no 7M-GTE motor ever cam with a distributor. Are you sure that its a GTE motor and not a GE with a turbo add? Is the oil feed and return as per stock GTE block or has are they custom? Also if the motor is out, then you...

it is activated/deactivated through the door lock key cylinders. Its triggered from both doors, hatch lid, and hood. Ah, its ok. when triggered, it sounds the alarm horn and disables the starter. My oppinion is if you are going to stay it, then rewire the starter disable circuit to...

yeah, something of that nature is all that you need to grind down the welds. One thing though, dont bother with the grinding stone that comes with it or which ever one you get. Pick yourself up some Flap disc's (pictured below). although they aren't the cheapest thing, but they are amazing and...

not bad for the first time with a welder. do look into a gas conversion, its makes the process easier IMO, plus as stated, better welds. As Ian said, practice, practice, practice!!!! The other thing too is that each person picks things up differently, like for example, Ian finds it easier...

Also if it is aluminum, you can change the steel friction plate if it is by chance glazed.

MKIV rotors have a larger pilot hole (MKIII= 60mm and MKIV=62mm). As for the "Z" parts, I haven't heard about the rotors being a direct fit, but I guess possible. Yes there is an adapter out there for the 300zx calipers and IIRC, using a MKIV TT rotor. The stock MKIV TT rears can be adapted to...