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Still getting codes 22 and 24?

Another significant difference is in the post 89 and pre89 blocks. The post 89 blocks have a lot more meat as has been documented on another thread. Also, the turbo block has the plumbing already tapped for the turbo/cooler oil lines.

I notice you have the stock BOV. Take it out and see if you can blow through it. I bet you can!

A little hot for paper! 89466-20020-83 $5.33 oxygen sensor gasket

You can do it from the TEWD. I'll give you an example.... Suppose you want the pinout of connector A35 (AC control servo motor) on page 24 http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=Main&Page=24 So click on the Automatic A/C tab on the left side, then scroll through to...

I had heard that the coating was gone on new cams from Toyota, so wanted to verify. Not a big deal.

Neo, did you buy new Toyota cams? If yes, did the bearing journals have a coating of that soft babbit material that is on the original cams?

For just the supermonitor pages Marty posted them here http://supras-ireland.net/files/88%20Supra%20Dash%20Wiring%20w-Super%20Monitor.pdf FYI originally posted here http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=378615

Standard head height is 116mm (4.567 in) deck to cam cover lip.

Remove the ISC and pull out the check valve behind it. Make sure the valve is clean and not torn. You will want to have an ISC gasket on hand when you put it back together.

I would think a semi-rigid hardline with swagelok fittings would be better (but more expensive). http://www.swagelok.com

Does this help? http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=Main&Page=24

It sure was, here is mine installed.

Are you sure its the ECU? If you had an open circuit or broken wire in one of the three EFI resistor networks in series with the injectors then you would also get a dead injector bank. Maybe you already tested it, but with the ignition on, you should see 12V on the red, black, and yellow wires...

Believe it or not, in the 19th and early-20th centuries, benzene was used as an after-shave lotion. It is very toxic. Use an NIOSH approved OV multi-gas respirator.

Here is something that actually works... Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner, although its best if you can pull the head off and add some elbow grease to the equation. Also attached are two photos to show you that it in fact does do the job, rather than just fogging the neighborhood with oil smoke.

The NA location gets in the way of the stock plumbing between the intercooler and 3000 pipe (which is why Toyota went to all the trouble to move it in the first place). Here is a diagram of the hose routing. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?Figure=4503&Page=1

Freon degreasers are generally compatible with most plastics and dry residue free. Replacement cleaners typically attack plastics and can destroy key components in the AFM.

You want a freon based electronics cleaner. Unless you happen to have an old can on your shelf, you will not be able to buy it (in the US) since it is a banned substance (ozone depleting).

To get JJ back, you just need to make a post about running 50W90 Synthetic and ask if that is too thin, will cause leaks, and if you should change it at 1k intervals or extend it out to 2k! :biglaugh: