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The fan clutch is easily repaired if the only issue is low silicon oil resulting in free wheeling and no lockup when hot. There is a tech note on how to do it. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/Docs/FanClutch.pdf

An alternator from the MK3 generation is about 60% efficient. That means for every horsepower at the alternator pulley, you get .6 hp of electrical power (about 450Watts). There is also another efficiency hit at the electrical fan motor, which is why the fan motor gets hot. There is no way it...

Some installation advice... AFPRs should be mounted to the engine. This prevents fuel leaks in an accident should the engine mounts break and the engine shifts. An AFPR mounted to the chassis can snap a fuel line under those conditions. Also, be careful about routing braided stainless lines...

Keep i mind that with the engine installed that is one of the worst gaskets to replace due to the extremely poor access to the bolts. I would wait for the real gasket if it was me.

With a cold engine, squeeze the upper rad hose. No coolant should squirt into the overflow bottle if the cap is good and the hose should feel firm and springy. If your rad cap is good, I would say its a BHG. Do a block test, or oil analysis to confirm.

Good. Keep the patents coming. The one unfair advantage this country still has is a culture of innovation. If we can keep that going, we stand a chance in this global world.

Nick is right, which is why I gave the approxmate warmup time. A lazy thermostat will take longer to warm up.

You writing a patent Kenny?

You get a code 12 when the ECU sees the starter signal, but doesn't detect any pulses from the CPS within a few seconds. Since you don't have a scope, use your multimeter and work back from the CPS. You said you saw 170 ohms for NE G1 G2 at the CPS. Pull off the ECU connector and measure them...

There aren't any MK3's left in TO, except for mine.:icon_surp

Is it cross-counting now? One way to get bad mileage is to have a bad thermostat that keeps the car in warmup mode permanently. With a good working thermostat the car should show a normal temp on the gauge within a mile of city driving from a (summer time) cold start.

JJs favorite question... the spark plug firing in the ungrounded head. :biglaugh: For those of us who've been around the block, we know the answer can be found on this site, because one day he caved in and spilled the beans!:icon_surp

If its a stock Toyota rad then it will be an o-ring seal. I've seen the plug itself crack since it is made of plastic. Best bet is to pull it out and inspect. O-ring and plug are a cheap fix.

The MCU does not handle coil pack selection, that is done by the fail safe ICs in the ECU. The MCU just issues the IGt pulse and checks for corresponding IGf. I have never seen any ignition activity at power-up, but I won't swear it isn't normal since I would typically be looking only at 1&6.

It's actually a coax cable, not a single wire.

If anyone knows Kanji, please translate this. It is a "nugget" hidden in the Techtom software 艱 艤 艠 艣 艨 艭 艦 [2082] 节 [餠] 艳 艤 艢 艧 艳 艮 艬 In unicode it is: 8271 8264 8260 8263 8268...

Are you sure it is plastic? Fails the magnet test? The CPS gear and pin kit is discontinued, so getting one from Toyota is no longer an option.

Thanks for the dash pics. Those won't work out too well for us LHD people.:icon_sad:

I'll second that, for those of us on the left side of the US, Mark Sherman at Vancouver Toyota is the best option. A while back he was telling me he ordered a bunch of engine part for the original M engine that someone was restoring. He was able to track them down. ---------- Post added at...

Pics of HKS dash please!