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The fuel turn on rpm is always 400 rpm lower than the turn off rpm. If the ECT sensor is unplugged, the default temperature of 80C will be used, which would give a 1600 rpm setpoint.

There are lots of little differences between the A/T and M/T ECus. For example, the M/T ECU fuel control will go open loop between shifts when the throttle snaps shut, while an A/T will stay in closed loop. Idle control is very different too.

Little known fact I suppose, but the fuel cut rpm setpoint is coolant temperature sensitive and can be as high as 2700 rpm at -20C.

Never mind... should have known better from the last thread....

For those with nuts on the starter, move the alternator out of the way and run a 2 ft extension from the front of the engine to the nut. Much easier.

Autocraft Microsystems is a company in Florida. ECU is probably a re-badged Techtom unit. Open the lid and show us what's inside. I doubt it is the cause of your problems though.

Grimjack I think once had one, not sure how he ever obtained it. Use a high temp split wire loom and wrap it in amalgamating rubber splicing tape.

Ughh, fuel line over the alternator. Hope you carry an extinguisher.

This circuit is so trivial everyone should be embarrassed if they cannot diagnose it. Things to check in no particular order: 1) Starter (starter relay contacts wear out) 2) Ignition Switch (using voltage drop test under load) 3) Starter relay used for theft deterrent & clutch interlock...

Bummer. It was claimed to have 10um resolution tracking of ones finger!

Well, my comments in the linked thread still stand. Leave MREL, B+ and BAT alone, and use the GAUGE circuit for aftermarket gadgets and gauges. Especially don't load MREL, as it is controlled by a complicated circuit inside the ECU and has low current handling.

Embassy Suites at SFO.

Also note that when the thermostat is closed the only flow through the engine comes from what can make it through the jiggle valve and the turbo cooling circuit (bypass line on the GE).

Your right, I did mix up the quotes. In any case, Adam writes it goes to the water outlet behind thermostat which is not the output side of the pump, its a radiator away from the suction side of the pump. The purpose was always clear though, since you need to ensure flow doesn't stagnate at the...

In order for the system capacity to remain the same after converting to R134a you will need to increase the condenser size by 30%.

So was the original 'fact' incorrect?

Don't use aftermarket. They have a history of falling out, with spectacular results.

Do you hear the pump when you jumper FP in the diag box? It makes a very audible sound and should draw about 4A if I remember correctly. Check for ECU codes.

Is it so hard to measure Vf?

Sorry JJ. I must have had a stale view of the thread because I was actually responding to IRONMAN. I added a quote to make it clearer.