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For $800 a pop? thanks, but mine seems to somehow be keeping in one piece.

Not a huge fan. It had its day back in the late 70's/ early 80's, but I feel it looks too 'clunky'. Having said that, I used to have one on my 77' 280Z. But I eventually took it off. It might look better with the rear side windows louvered as well, but still not my favorite look.

Used to have the MSD's. after about a year, the plastic/resin boots began to get brittle and disintegrate.

Thanks Poodles- I'm going to try the double washer reinforcement, and see if it'll last. If not, I guess I'm headed to BIC. The diff is not rebuilt really, as I didn't mess with the clutchpack, or the bearings(they seemed to be in smooth, quiet shape). All I did was replace the three seal and...

So my buddy is driving across town(true friend) to weld this up for me. I also removed the control arm, and am going to have him weld the tab back together, and reinforce it with a washer welded to each side of the tab. Hopefully, that'll give it the strength it needs.

Yeah- there's A LOT you need to check. Differential mounting bolts, broken swaybar endlinks/ tabs, subframe bolts/ bushings, etc. I just found out today that my subframe has a 3" crack above the front differentail mount, and I had a broken endlink tab. Getting both welded in an hour. See here...

Here's my busted tab: And another gem I found while under there: After cleanup: New vs. old: So now I HAVE to get a guy to come over to weld up this crack before I put the other diff in- Luckily, the crack did not continue to the other side of the subframe- it's only about 4...

...For the rear swaybar endlink tabs? Was just replacing my differential, and when I climbed under the car, I noticed that my left read endlink mounting tab was busted clean off. I know that some people just weld the originals to reinforce them, but have also read(don't remember where) that...

I keep looking back to this thread, hoping someone will post a dyno result. :: rant3 ::

Well, the rubber seal itself sticks out about a 1/4 of an inch, so using a flat board might damage it. However- I found that the bottom of a spray can is the perfect size to drive the seal in, and is domed to clear the rubber lip of the seal! I used an empty can, pierced it to verify no...

I was thinking of using a cap, but don't have any metal ones and the plastic won't work.

Hi all- I've been replacing the seals on my diff, and realized that I can't tap in the side seals, due to the diameter. I need something between 62 and 64mm in diameter to place over the seal to safely tap it in, and was wondering what people have used in the past, besides going to Toyota and...

That's dead sexy....oooooh!

Looks like he's prepping for a 1JZ swap, so I guessing his clip is RHD- Can you use a RHD rack??

So I bought this from Harbor Freight, and as mentioned above- it took more time to bolt it onto the hubs than to remove the hubs. Damn- what a difference it makes, going from a 2lb slider to a 5lb unit! For you physics guys, I know what a huge difference there must be in the impact force between...

That's a gorgeous car! Love how clean it is!!!

WORD. Did you ever get oil pressure?? Because if you came on here to ask all these opinions on the best way to prep your engine, then just ran it with no oil pressure, I'm going to be pissed.

Werd. They've got them for $45 including the axle attachment, so I'll either go this route or see if I can rent one from somewhere.

WOW, Hell of a story. Glad you're getting better. Also- I've never seen someone so truly motivated to improving performance. I mean- usually people will get rid of bumper supports and interior pieces to lighten up, but you!- Pulling adnoids and tonsils?? MAD props man!!! j/k- Welcome back!

I know- I guess that was redundant of me. :aigo: