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Gasket. Sounds like your problem involved the "quickie" part....

The beeper is also involved with the seat belt warning system which is why it's on US cars. As for defeating it some of you sure like doing things the hard way...

X2. You won't find a drop of cheez-whiz on my engine. You won't find a drop of anything else either...

Fwiw the part numbers aren't the same on the ones I have. They all work the same though...

Lmao. Are you serious? Try forgetting that pic and looking in the TSRM...

Then you need a GTE igniter. A new mechanic might not be a bad idea either...

Just so we're clear on this the engine you're trying to start has: 1) Three coils packs 2) A turbo ECU 3) A CPS. 4) An N/A igniter. Is that accurate or did you transplant the dizzy?

You're trying to run a GTE ignition system with a GE igniter? Not gonna work...

Coriolis ;)

Many fastener applications require torque and hold. Crush washers come to mind. Beams are used in such applications because a clicker releases torque when it reaches it's setting. A good mechanic will own both.

The way it's supposed to work is the ignition switch turns on the ECU and the ECU then turns on the main relay. The black/red wires are +B and +B1, the main switched feeds for the ECU. The black/yellow is BATT, the ECU's keep alive feed from the battery. Twisting it together with the other two...

Since it's not possible for the fuel pump to run unless the main relay is closed your wiring must no longer be stock...

^ As it should. The fuel gage is a cross coil non-return type. That means it's dampened to the point where it's designed to stay where it was when power is removed. The way it does that is by using a full balancing disc on the pointer shaft instead of the half disc used on return type gages. In...

Sigh. It's not normal at all. Your gage is defective...

What you saw is normal. The engine will be hard starting (at least when cold) without the coolant sensor because unplugging it makes the ECU think the coolant is hot. If it thinks it's hot it won't supply the extra fuel needed for cold start and warm up enrichment. Btw a quick check shows...

Who wants to mess with switches? Just wire it to your aftermarket or factory alarm. Subbing the fuel pump for the starter interlock (or keeping both) is easy on the factory alarm because it's all in the passenger foot well. Or use a cheap keyless entry system to do it...

No resistors needed. Simply unplug it...

Well, one reason is two of those (ground and ign) are available on the cluster in several places as screw terminals....

^ MOT is a vehicle inspection. OP: How inconsiderate of Toyota not to provide EFI codes for this type of problem. Might want to check the 40 amp blower CB...

Supposed to be but I wouldn't know for sure since I have what came in the car. The air mix damper is what you want to check. It blocks the heater core in varying degrees based on temp setting. Easiest way to check air mix and blend dampers is to put the system in auto and starting from 65 F...