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I was gonna mention that. Clip off a little bit of it, so you don't have so much hose to make that turn. You want a curve, not a kink. So you just swapped in this motor that is leaking a quart every 20 miles? Where is that oil going? Did you not see any evidence of this leak before the install...

Not today.........Heat index is at 110 degrees! You can't even walk out to the car without sweating. Saturday, I'm planning on doing rear brakes and swapping coil packs. I'll do some sweating then. Thanks for the tips, I will definitely be hunting down some of those supplies.

What I was told was a Holden Commodore just the other day was nicer than that, and more compact. Maybe it was just the camera angle. I thought you would get a LOL on that Jake.

Looks just like a Ford Taurus from Prichard

You know, the heat coming out of that turbo is what caused the car to overheat. Quick, give that bubble gum you are chewing, I'm gonna fix it.

I'm pretty sure that's the coolant line to your turbo. It might be a little bit necessary.

You should share your secrets! Your detail work is outstanding.

Lololololol

I ran into this exact problem building my car. but I can't help much. I took the expensive easy way out, and just bought a different harness. It worked out good for me, because the first harness was my first ever experience with soldering wires. I had to cut my 550 clips and AFC-NEO harness.

I never really had you pegged as a criminal Pete, but I guess you could still be classified in the Wolf category

You'll need to get the radiator and fan out of the way.You gotta break the fuel line lose near the frame rail, and disconnect the clutch linkage if 5-speed, as well as shifter. And, you will need to break a few wires off the harness loose, but most stay on. I know the wiring to the alternator...

Thanks Dave!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm bumming a ride for lunch today to cut down on any driving I don't HAVE to do. I re-tested today after the car had been sitting for a couple of hours. I have 1 dead coil, 1 good coil, and 1 erratic coil. It does not run very good at all now.

If you're like me, and don't want to get back under it (or pay somebody again), go ahead and start with a good slave cylinder while the tranny is out. Of course if you do that, you probably want a clutch master as well, and then you're getting up there in price a bit.

Wait.....What? That's a good looking car to trash over something as small as a blower motor.

Yes, it is easier to remove the gear box with it. First, unplug the wiring harness from the ECU. Push it through the firewall, and lay it over on the motor. There are just a few plugs you will need to take loose, and you won't need to take it off the motor yet. Then, pull the radiator and fan...

:ttiwwp: :bsflag: I think somebody might be wanting to power up here. If you had lost them, why in the hell would you have a loaded gun in your lap when they finally found you?

Great news! What is the dyno goal???????

I decided to bypass my heater because I didn't want to do the work. I live in the Deep South, so it never get's too cold anyway. I'm scared I will need a defrost tho. That's gonna be a fun project!

Over the weekend, I bought a new Actron Multimeter and auto diagnostic machine. It was $50, and I recommend everyone that doesn't have at least a Multimeter go get one. This thing came with a thick book, which illustrates how to test almost everything on an automobile. With that and some printed...

^Correct, firsrt place to check wet driver's floor is the clutch master. Now the coolant issue is another problem all together. Has the car overheated due to the lack of coolant? Hopefully it's not too late. Do a search on burping your coolant system. You could just have air forcing your coolant...