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They do. Its just that my drive shaft has thrown out both of the "U" joints.

It is. Still has "U" joints. ;-)

Yes in the race cars we run 100% nitrogen in the tires because it does not expand an pressurize (sp?) like normal air does. So when you go out for a 100 lap main event, your tires won't go from 20psi up to 80.

Mustangs. Every single little under 18 year old crap head around here seems to think his/mustang can take a corner doing 120mph and beat any thing on the street. ITs hillarious when I have some fun with them and they ask me afterwards... "What kind of car is that?"

Im not even going to read the rest of the 3+ pages, but personally San Fran Sissyco and all the fags and dikes that live there can go fuck themselves and jump into the sea. I am still 100000% STUMPED why the rest of the nation for some reason seems to think that if San Fran Sissyco does it...

I bought one of these long ago about 4 years, and now I need "U" joints for the thing. I can't find any spicer or dana numbers on the joints themselves, and S.S. won't answer my question because they dont' know. Any one have any help?

I already gave him good feedback hoping he would do the same. A month after the sale he calls me up wanting his money back. I stated to him that since it was sold on ebay and not from the MDC Motorsports website directly, and that the part was described as flawed and sold "AS IS" that there...

My car has the same problem... I replaced the starter and that wasnt' it. Now I tend to think its drive line related... sounds almost like a tamborene right?

Sorry its bobbobtht. Damn guy bought a part that I listed "AS IS & NO RETURNS. ALL SALES FINAL". For a measly $25 he wanted a refund on that part. I told him no go nice and polite because of the terms I had listed no ebay. So the f#$cker puts a negative feedback on my name. Nice...

Well Im looking for one person in particular... bobobtsq or some crap like that. Would really like to have a chat with this guy... :-(

1 wire will not work on the turbo cars. Just buy one from me for $45 and its oem denso.

Gixxer. 315s will solve your car's non-listening issues. Also, how did you make the boost leak tester? I have a mild version of EXACTLY what your car was doing.

You could always drain back into the pan itself by welding a bung. You don't need to run water into the ct-26 if you turbo time, and open up the space where the water went (as in don't cap it off or you will crack the housing due to heat & moisture expansion). As for turbo feed, put a T...

Looks like nasty engine oil creeped back up into the the rear of the turbo through the drain back tube, and behind the rear turbo heatshield (internal). You could either A.) RUn it untill it stops smoking (will coke the rear of the turbo internally like mad) or B.) rebuild the turbo

Well the water had to go somewhere. The tick you were hearing is either A.) Rod knock or B.) You've cooked the head and the valves are now shot because you decided to drive home. And yes like grim said, the rad was not hot because there wasn't any water in it.

Yeah Id have to agree with you on that one. No pedal = no fun = junky welds.

CK alum is easier than steel after a while...

Just wondering who is who on here & ebay. :naughty:

$3k for an N/A with that many miles is crazy. Possibly $1000-1500 MAX.

The evo turbos are matched for spool & response VS massive HP. Yes they run 20psi from the factory, but as the rpm goes up, Mitsu has the boost taper down to I think 16 or something like that. Either way, that engine is reponsive as hell, no lag, and with what that guy had I would...