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Why do you suppose that is?

I was going to suggest to the author to look up all the threads with the same symptom, suggestions (false diagnosis) and failure to fix it. Not to indict your work, just a generalization.

Group 4 and 5 are not made from crude oil base stock. Most are made from hydrocracking the crude oil. Most being Mobil 1, Castrol, Penzoil... they all work really well, but not as well as a group 4 or 5.

Here is some food for thought for you. There are many more cars on the road that are naturally aspirated compared to artificial aspiration. And they smoke on deceleration. Is that from turbo seals when it doesn't have a turbo seal?

10w60 is a grading system developed by the Society of Automotive Engineers to help complicate owners thoughts on oil, because C and S for diesel and gas from the API wasn't confusing enough. C and S do have a legitimate reason, but unless you have read it, you might not get it. So 10W is a grade.

No online site is as good as the paper manual. You should see the 89 and newer EWD. Much better than the 88 and older.

Spell check Seriously.

Group 4 or 5 synthetic? 60 grade needs a lot of heat to flow properly.

All production engines pump oil through the crankshaft to the journals. And there is a hole and passage in the rod to squirt oil on the cylinder wall. Not the piston. This is why pistons have oil control rings. To wipe away the excess and minimize oil burning through the four stroke process. All...

If you have a GE, you don't have the pistons to squirt oil on the underside. If the Pauter rod does not have holes in it, then you will not have any lubrication besides the crank splash. Something to think about...I know, too late now.

I say that because if you try to pick the lock with a slim jim, the circular switch often breaks off.

Toyota ASE doesn't have any text books. But they do endorse a few, like the picture I just posted. The text books are approved to be endorsed by NATEF.

Why not take the door panel off and look at the switches?

http://www.importperformancetrans.com/toyotaindex.shtml

What is expensive?

More than 50 milliamps on any car is too much. Toyota lists 20-30. In computer speak it is keep alive memory. That is for fuel trim and anti-theft. It is typical to have current drop after you connect the DVOM (digital volt-ohm meter) in series. A 12v test light would be ok, but anti-theft...

You saying it over and over does not make it so. The housing size is correct for the injectors. There is something else wrong. Nobody can see the car but you. Is the accordion pipe hooked up? Is it cracked?

Don't do it while the car is running.

Sure they can. It is called voltage drop.