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Ok, good luck with it. One more thing: VC to E2 should always be 5 volts. It's the reference voltage for all the sensors. The first thing you should do when having a sensor problem is check VC. If it's not right what the sensor puts out will also be wrong.

No, you may not be able to measure continuity between ground and E2 with the key on because of ground losses. Continuity can only be measured in circuits without power in them or your meter on ohms will lie to you. Better to measure voltage drop using millivolts the way I said. Forget E2, I'm...

That's actually not strange at all. The AFM is one of the two main inputs the engine uses to calculate the basic fuel injection duration, the duration used before all the other corrections are applied. I can tell you from running my engine off a frequency generator instead of the AFM that the...

Huh? I was under the impression you'd already tested them long before we got into this voltage thing. You know, when you were first trying to get ride of the code 41. Ah well. Edit: No wait, those values look Ok to me. VC-E2 is supposed to be in K ohms though and VTA will vary as the TPS lever...

^ What Jeff said. If you have a license you can buy all you want. I have tons of it lying around. (Well OK, maybe not tons). That said if I'm not mistaken it *is* illegal in Canada. All MVAC systems leak a little because of the hoses and connections used. It's not like your fridge or an...

Throwing parts at a problem is never good technique and having new (if they are new) sensors and a harness means nothing to the ECU. Clean and correct signals are what matter. You need to verify the sensors are working and the sginals are arriving at the ECU. The easiest way to do that is with a...

E2 is a sensor ground. It ends up being grounded to battery negative through the ECU. It must be a good connection or both VTA and IDL will not work. Since a poor connection on E2 will cause VTA to be high that alone could have been the source of code 41. That said as long as you're sure E2 is...

^ What he said. Your friend is talking out of his ass. If you think about he doesn't even make sense. Not with studs anyway.

You can buy small cans of R12 on ebay. A license is normally needed but many sellers will accept a statement you're not going to resell it. Based on your symptoms it sounds like your problem is nothing more than low charge. Look at the sight glass in the receiver/dryer while the system is...

If it's done right it might be worth it. Right doesn't mean using a $25 death kit from an auto store. On the other hand for $55 you could buy enough R12 to fix it.

Not cocky, frustrated at having to repeat myself. Don't take it personal. It's not as if you're the only one I have to do it with. The point remains the engine can be safely run lean all day long while making that amount of power. The pilot comment came from your earlier post where you stated an...

I only see tests involving the IDL contact. That has nothing to do with a 41. Do this: Measure between VTA and battery negative. Do it both with the throttle (or TPS if off the car) closed and full open. Tell me what you get. I'd like to confirm voltages that would set a code 41 even though your...

It'll work either way. Myself, I'd check the AFM properly and then the wiring since either will cause that code. That is, unless you did something dumb like trying to clean the thing using the wrong stuff.

With T and E shorted Vf outputs an emulated O2 sensor signal. The engine must be off idle. The idle contact referred to in the post above is the one in the TPS ie; "jeff" is mistaken. That's not right. It should do what you say in the statement below. It does however show you have at least one...

Sigh. One more time: 75% POWER. If an engine is rated at 1000 hp and is making 750 it's at 75% power. On a stock 230 hp Supra that would be 172.5 hp. Use whatever throttle position it takes to make that. Sure, a car cruising on the highway uses about 25-28% of it's available power to go 60...

IGf is generated from spark so no spark, no IGf. Forget about it and move upstream. I'm not that familiar with this engine so I can't offer too much but you'll need proper cam/crank sensor signals to generate ignition. Check for +12 power to one side of the coils too. Lathrop huh? My condolences ;)

First confirm spark because no spark = no IGf. If you have spark but no IGf then you'll need to check the igniter and IGf wiring. If you have no spark forget about IGf and focus on your cam/crank sensors.

You'll need to fix that, it's serious. It's either a bad sensor or more likely bad wiring. The sensor is located on the drivers side of the engine block below the intake manifold. Was the check engine light on? If not clear the code as it may be old and the ECU treats this code in a special...

Your English is fine, it's your reading comprehension that sucks. Or maybe it's mine. I interpret the above statement to mean an engine producing 75% of it's rated horsepower is lightly loaded ie; "not putting that big of a load on it".

^ Glad someone finally spoke up. Maybe increased boost is implied in the original post but without it he'll be lucky to see even that.