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Well, you can check the coil alone if you want. Connect the negative primary terminal to the negative of the battery. Make sure the negative battery is still connected to the engine block. Wire the positive primary terminal and, as quickly as you can, flick it across the battery positive. Don't...

It's difficult to accurately measure resistance that low without using a specialized meter. Not to mention coil resistance is temperature dependent. I'm gonna say yours is fine but you can always test it by making spark...

I see by your edit you may be on the right track. All refrigerants have a certain pressure/temperature relationship. It's what makes them refrigerants in the first place. For your suction line to be at 30 psi means the refrigerant's temperature in it (for HFC-134a) must be 35 degrees. Sounds...

I would certainly hope the engine was running when you saw 30 psi because if it was off I seriously doubt you'd even care the AC isn't working. In that statement also lies some insight into your problem...

Than it must be the alternator sense line. Connect it to battery positive and move on...

I suppose to someone with your lack of electrical ability those are valid points. Mine was it'd take someone who knows what they're doing a quarter of an hour and wouldn't involve replacing or bypassing any wires, even in your car. As a further irony the techniques required are among the most...

A little electrical humor there. First off, if you're not sure of where something goes use a fused jumper to connect it. One of those cheap inline fuseholders with a 10 amp fuse in it will do. That way the only damage will be a blown fuse. Second, all the hot wires in the car come from the...

Now that's entertainment ;)

Ground that and you'll be sorry....

Geez, imagine that. And damn nice of you to thank all those who tried to help in spite of your piss poor communication. Especially the guy you blew off in post #3 who nailed it right out of the gate. Smooth move there Ace...

It's the standard procedure used on other cars to do on-the-car injector cleaning, just that Toyota makes it a little tougher. Basically you unplug the fuel pump relay, run the engine dry, pinch the return line and then connect a fuel injection cleaning cannister to the fuel rail after filling...

So wait...you really don't have the pipes connected? The big ones? I was talking about small leaks. As for the TPS guess again. Your toy doesn't read the part of the TPS that would cause this problem. If you want help less talk, more listen. After all if you knew what you were doing you...

^ What he said. One of the first things I do on any used car I buy is replace the radiator. A while back I posted pix of one that I'd cut open after a car was brought to me that only occasionally and mildly got hot and then only under certain conditions. It looked pristine under the cap was...

Looks like a 52 and 41. The trick is to use the bargraph. I'd clear them and try again in case they're old. If they come back fix the 41 (TPS) first. In fact you may want to unplug the TPS and see if things improve. Timing is dead on at 1500 rpm? Hmmm. I don't think it should be but I'd have to...

Whenever T and E1 are jumped the ECU does several things, one of which is to set idle rpm in preparation for ignition timing. That's for a hot engine though. Since that that value isn't 1500 there's something wrong. I suspect timing is off. W is the ECU terminal that supplies ground to the...

Well, drawing things out in your head isn't what I'd call visual learning but OK, fair nuff. Guess I misunderstood. And stop over analyzing things. It makes reaching decisions about all sorts of things difficult. It'll really screw you up...especially when it comes to dealing with women ;)

A vacuum leak won't cause this and even if it did why aren't you measuring vacuum? And why, after 13 posts, have you not checked codes? Not that your problem would show up as a code, rather it would be a lack of one. I suggest you check the idle contact. The symptoms you're describing indicated...

The thread is 2 months old. She probably has it fixed by now. And in the interest of accuracy the ECU has absolutely nothing to do with running the starter...

On the GTE there's a spot on the lower manifold towards the rear. Dunno on the GE so you'll have to wait for one of those guys to chime in if you want to know for sure. I'll say this though: the brown wires are associated with ECU grounding so wherever you put them has to be a solid ground...