Search results

Serious? from the pic, the turbo definately looks like it's sitting higher than the valve covers.

Yeah, after I tested my upper cable with the "drill" method and ruled that out, I unscrewed my lower cable and found the tranny-end was sheared. $16 for a new one from the dealer- not bad.

I have done this- it's easy.

Great. Me with my aluminum driveshaft, wondering if I'll get smacked in the balls one day with a big metal stick. I have one driveshaft loop, which I was planning on putting towards the front of the driveshaft, I think I might put a second towards the center, where the carrier bearing bolts in...

The shims are not added in case the clearances are off. It's true that they come in different thicknesses for adjustment, but they are a mandatory part of the valvetrain.

Nice. I dig the rims, especially.

What is this?

Have you checked to see if the turbo with the spacer (in the last picture) will fit under the hood? I ask because I was thinking of going with the same spacer.

:rofl:

Umm, aren't the shims about 1/8" thick??? PLEASE tell me you have the shims in on top of the lifter buckets. Please?

Oh yeah- I see what you mean now. It's not a twisting force, but an inertia or centrifugal force. Never thought of that at all.

I would like to see a front sillouhette view of a MA70 vehichle on front, and "GTEpowered.com" on it as well, of course PS- A cool quote would be nice too- "It takes Old School to teach new fools" ....or... you know......something....

Umm.....What kind of power was this guy putting into that shaft? I'm only intending to go to ~350-400hp when I install mine... PS- I've already bought a driveshaft loop for mine, so hopefully something like that won't be able to happen to me.... I hope....

Crap!- MODS- please move this to general section- didn't realize I was shopping when this question hit me!

Hey guys- I have read in a few different posts, that aftermarket single-piece driveshafts- particularly aluminum ones- tend to have a droning vibration to them. I figure that this makes sense, because it's basically a hollow metal pipe, and prolly transmits and amplifies the noises from the...

What he said. It struck me as strange that you had your gauge hooked to the FPR line instead of the manifold.

:werd: :withstupi :word8kn: You might have... that other kind of knock... And yes, you can use coax cable. I did on mine.

This advice is kinda in the opposite direction, but... have you checked your catalytic converter lately?? Mine was losing boost slowly; I couldn't build over 9 psi, and it was taking forever to build(5000rpm). When I got my cat replaced on this hunch, I found that the core was 80% blocked...

AMEN!- This happened to me- low CO, high NOX. The EGR should be removed, and you need to clean out the piping. I used carb cleaner, as well as a piece of braided metal wire in a drill chuck to roto-rooter the gunk in the small metal vacuum port tube, as well as the main metal exhaust bypass...

How long did it take you to pull the dash? It's something I need to do soon for the heater core replacement, and I just want to make sure I can pull it and replace it all in one day.