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You must be new at this sort of thing. It's conventional. Example: for soft to medium current flows from M+ to M-. The reverse is true for medium to soft. Soft to firm is the same as soft to medium but with the addition of flow through the solenoid to ground. Not that it makes any difference...

We're talking about 10 degrees. Are you suggesting your cooling system has that little reserve capacity? I seriously doubt it (especially with that radiator) but if so you have bigger problems than that tray will solve and if not the tray will make zero difference...

Connector B1...

It means the cap's vacuum valve isn't sealing although the pressure valve portion or it's seal would also have to fail to allow coolant purging. Do as jdub suggested. Also check both the rad neck upper and lower sealing surfaces. Since you didn't provide enough info for a more thorough diagnosis...

That's actually a good sign. Means the cap might be the problem after all...

Err, no need to remove the harness for that. Besides, signal tracing would have been easier and far more effective. And it's a no brainer to figure out the CPS wiring. After all the ECU pinout is in the manual. Once the four wires are identified they can then be matched to the CPS pickups. The...

My bad...I thought most people knew about these kinds of scams: http://tinyurl.com/de4s3y

Confusing no? ;)

No...but you'll get great gas mileage ;)

Last I check it was on the outlet of the compressor...

I never said it was a good test, just making a point. And maybe my memory is slipping but I seem to recall your system doesn't work well. Considering your frequent proffering of advice on the subject I find that strange...

Welcome Grim. Note what I said is for a TXV system. CCOT (orifice tube) systems will be different. And it's funny how the AC questions pop up every year about this time :) Satan: Once the car cools down try it on low fan. I'll bet the longer residence time puts it into the 30s...

Those numbers look OK. Since R12's temp/pressure curve is fairly flat a suction pressure of 30 psi means the stuff is close to 30 F which is what it should be with a working expansion valve. Keep in mind the evap isn't allowed to go below freezing or it'll ice up. Add the typical 10 degree or so...

Do what works I guess. I've never had to move it one tooth. Hell, the only time I follow the book is if I've turned the engine over when it's out and even then it goes right in and times the way it should. Otherwise I just mark it. Simply offset it a bit so that after it's seated the pickup ends...

How did you come up with that charge amount? What blower speed was the 42 at? What vent? Recirc or fresh? High and low side pressures after stabilization? Coolant valve on there and working? At 75 ambient (what RH?) you're not asking much of the system. I'm not saying it won't work when warmer...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx Contrary to what that says there's no need to start the car...

None of those codes will prevent spark but all need to be repaired at some point. For now clear them (they may be old) and check for new ones after cranking the engine. Although I've never had the problem CPS wiring can become faulty in the area of the connector or the connector itself can go...

Check codes but my money is on a boost leak...

The igniter supplies ground to the coil packs so maybe you should start looking at the grounding. The igniter has to be bolted to the chassis to work for example. Does the tach flicker during cranking? A bad CPS or it's connector wiring (common) will prevent spark. And I see no mention of codes...

^ My dog agrees ;) Perhaps you shouldn't have explained it at all...