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I'm apprised too. Very apprised.:: alky ::

Doubt it's the O2 sensor- If it was dead, you'd prolly get a code for that. And when it's working, it doesn't go to closed loop till the engine warms up(as mentioned above). AKA- the ECU and motor don't care what the O2 sensor report until things have warmed up. Besides, if you're going to...

You weren't very clear- Does it crank with the key and not start? If not, then yes- it's possibly the alarm system, but it may also be the starter solenoid, a known offender in these cars. I especially suspect this, as you said they could jump start it- I assume that means they're contcting the...

Mine is fine when cold, though a bit more like an on-off switch. It sounds like the fuel ratio is lean.

Don't know if this'll help, but a while back, I was driving along and the car just shut down. When I checked the fuses- the EFI was blown. I replaced it, and as soon as I tried to start, it blew. After like 5 fuses, I found that part of the harness was resting on the intake manifold near the...

The T-stat would not be competing against the fan, as the T-stat's job is not to cool the engine- It's job is to permit or prevent flow to the rad. The fan's job is to cool the engine. I used to have twin FAL's installed in my car, and they worked fine until the fan controller crapped out. Then...

there IS such a thing as being TOO jdm tight, yo.

Yeah- what he said- If the light comes on during hard accel or hard braking, it's definately the fluid level.

Another issue to consider is your exhaust. If you have any blockage, it'll reduce the amount of boost you can produce.

Nice work man!

I've run the MAF-T in suck-thru and blow-thru mode, but again, that's using a GM sensor. It won't really work with our OEM units. I have the MAF about 1.5 - 2ft from the TB in the IC piping.

Yup.

How long has this problem existed? I didn't see you mention that. I have lost boost over the period of about two weeks- went from 13psi to 6psi due to a blocked cat. If you had a boost leak big enough to keep you at 2-3 psi, then you might be able to hear it- it'll sound like a bunch of...

You want a rising rate FPR, or a 1:1 boost reference FPR(others please chime in) if I recall. You can either bypass the J-tube entirely, or drill out the end to remove the restriction. I did this, as It was off the car and I didn't have to worry about metal shavings.

Doesn't look like the shape of OUR CT-26 inlets. Aren't ours round?? Maybe that's for the MR2's CT?

I had a similar situation the other night- I was driving back to Atlanta from Charlotte, and this dude in a neon keeps coming up along side me and tearing off. Mind you- this is a POS base model neon, not an SRT-4 or anything. And to top it off, it's raining out! What a tard. he got tired...

Not sure, but I think it was made in Canada as I recall. I'll have to go down and find the box to see. PS- Today I put in the OEM cooling fan setup, with new shroud and twin AC fans. Also, I finally got around to replacing the leaky power steering pump with a reconditioned one. Hopefully...

It was turbo, man. Like the others said- if it was an NA, you would have decimated him. Congrats! : )

Well, here's the results- I replaced the cat(2 yrs old and no blockage) with a $50 3" cat off of Ebay. Going into the test, my HC was around 108 out of 140 max, and the NOx was 1851 out of 984 max. After the cat, my HC went down to 64/ 140 max, and the NOx went to 675/ 984 max. SO, it appears...

So...I didn't see it- where was a Supra? :biglaugh: