Unless your car has slicks and a rollcage, your new tach cannot be of greater diameter than 4.3 inches.
If it is, ricer-douche factor increases at an exponential rate, in direct proportion.
:biglaugh:
Well regardless, I'm taking precautions for both. I already had the stainless bolts/ star washers, and have coated the surface of the valve cover gaskets with a non-hardening hylomar sealant, which worked fantastic on my last motor.
Also- I've put a small amount of hi-temp sealant under the...
Oh, I know- I've had this car for 15 years.
But to leak evenly into all three valleys, and fill to the top of the plugs? It's gotta be the upper valley bolts, i'm thinkin.
Um- our cars use 25mm shims, not 28mm.
I HOPE you just made a typo, and didn't order 28mm items.
And I've used Goodson for shims in the past- 18$ for 4 of them, not too bad.
http://www.goodson.com/store/template/product_detail.php?IID=5442
The upper plugs? When I removed them, they were all tight.
I'll take them out again and coat the threads.
PS- I just read an old post from 2007, where JetJock points out that oil doesn't conduct very well at all.
I guess that explains why she still ran smoothly-even with more oil in the valley...
So anyway, now that I'm thinking about it, how could the entire spark plug valley fill up?
I mean- it's three isolated compartments, I just don't see a leaking valve cover causing this. Maybe one section of the valley, but not uniformly filling all three.
If anyone has any ideas, please share...
Was bored today, so I decided to degrease the #3 cover on my engine, as it was inexplicably greasy.
I figured I just had to retorque the valve cover bolts. Well, after taking off the IC pipes and unbolting the coilpack, I start pulling the spark plug wires. HOLY Crap! EVERY single plug wire was...
Yes- get the OEM bearings in the proper sizes, so you can close those tolerances. The mains and rods are actually stamped with numbers, corresponding to the proper OEM bearing thicknesses.
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