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^ Some facts about California's Roadside Inspection Program: 1) The law specifies that only a CHP officer can direct vehicles out of traffic and into the test lane. Therefore BAR contracts with the CHP to perform this function. It is the officer's only duty at the inspection. 2) You can...

^ This. In fact the question was answered in the post before yours. Same thing but without the switch. However since the system is simple and thus easily repaired why anyone would defeat it is beyond me. Not sure what you were getting at but in the interest of accuracy there are four...

Just to be clear (as was pointed out) the pump doesn't run with the key on, not even for 3-5 seconds.

It didn't.

1) Unless one was installed after the car was built these engines don't use a MAF sensor. 2) It's normal for a GTE to run with the AFM and ISCV unplugged. Those that won't have something wrong with them. Shouldn't rev past 3000 though. 2) When not under boost (a condition the OP seems to...

If you don't post in the right section you're unlikely to get the help you need. And ticks are bad btw, the less you have the better...

I have a copy of Sled Driver. Great read. As for the U-2 here a vid from Top Gear's James May you might enjoy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PmYItnlY5M

You can't see what else it would be? Are you serious? It's not the ECU, not the alarm, and there's little point in continuing the thread until you do the stuff suggested and provide feedback. And not that I think codes are important in this case but wtf is up with this: I'm not...

Sigh. Someone slap me...

I seriously doubt the AFM is your problem. There's a lot of other things more likely to cause stalling and the ECU doesn't use the AFM signal when starting the engine.

You're welcome. For the laughs I've gotten from many of your posts it's the least I could do :)

1) The fuel pump isn't supposed to run with the key on. 2) What codes did you expect to get after disconnecting the AFM?

I ran a Motor Guard for years as I prefer toilet paper for its depth, cheapness, and availability. Can be messy to change though. You can use a sandwich adapter and either run it across the adapter or dump the return into someplace like the valve cover or drill and tap one of the third cylinder...

There is very little pressure in the return line. A 350 psi rating will work fine and still be overkill...

Look under the little cover for the diag block. If it's missing: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx

Don't feel bad. Oil idiots are among the most plentiful in the automotive world and distancing yourself from them is an achievement to be proud of.

It's tough to decipher that but of you're implying a vacuum leak will raise idle speed, it won't.

One way to prove it's the CSI is to unplug the connector on the thermal time switch. If the engine then refuses to start at all you'll know that's what was running it. Course, that won't help any in resolving the real issue. Usually alarm systems interlock the starter but cutting the fuel pump...

Lol. It never ends...

Yes. It was apparent from the first post the engine may be running off the cold start injector and the use of starting fluid seems to prove it...