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Bingo.

Ouch. That's alot of money for a Tridon.

Charcoal cannister: The bottom pipe doesn't go anywhere else; it vents down there. That vsv looks to be for the heater core valve on the firewall. It's supposed to be mounted right under the valve, currently located above it. Edit: Beat me by 3.22 seconds, JJ. :biglaugh:

I would agree with this in this situation, as aluminum large core radiators will transfer heat more efficiently than the factory unit. Otherwise, you would want to hold the heated coolant in the radiator a bit longer(higher temp rating tstat) in order to giver the oem rad longer to exchange the...

Shut up! He's gonna wanna charge me even more!!! :)

Well, there ARE alot of threads concerning clutch selection in this power range, maybe that's why it's quiet in here. I have similar power goals, and I intend to go with a Spec 2+ or 3+.

Payment has been sent for front + steering rack. Now let's start up that assembly line!

I'd meet up with you guys, just to say hello and see your cars. Right now my supra is apart for full restoration, so I'd be rolling large in my daily:

Too funny. Watching the two premier electro-braniacs of Supramania competing at at 'speed solving'. You should be flattered, Morganson. LOL

Ok, well it does sound like you've got your cooling system sorted out. Bear in mind though, that alot of aftermarket thermostats will 'stick' on occasion, and cause temp spikes as well. Also- if your AC condenser is blocked with bugs, etc., you won't get optimal airflow through the rad core...

Can't say as to the ride height, but most of the non-turbo Supras came without any wing, unless they had the sport package. Shouldn't be too hard to find a wingless(hole-less) hatch. PS- dark leather interior? Do you mean the maroon or blue interior? If so, yes, those are stock colors.

And on your extensive list of mods and upgrades, I didn't see anything about your cooling system. I have to ask- What type of radiator and cap are you using? Seeing as you have thousands of dollars in engine management, and upgraded internal parts, I assume you're on an upgraded rad?

yeah, like $15-20 each. And...you have a paint gun...ok....good... And you also have a dust-free, humidity-controlled paintbooth? Just sayin- don't expect perfect results in your garage, but as long as you wet-sand/ buff the paint before clearcoat, it'll probably come out ok.

ps- while you've got the tail lights out- replace the seals for them. They're pretty cheap from the dealer, and will keep water out of your hatch area.

The price for a new set of steering bushings from the factory is about~$45. The best price I've ever seen for replacement front subframe bushings, is about $33(x4) each. The rears are two different types, the two rearmost are about $20 each. The 4 front ones...You don't even want to know.

Looks really nice. Post a sound clip if you get the opportunity. I plan to replace my fart can with a Borla once I get to my engine build stage. Still working on the front suspension stage though, so it has to wait. But I did buy the muffler and the tips: I think I'll copy your example...

It's not. Check the firewall tag(Chassis code). Some cars have different designations on the door tag or dash tag, but an "MA71" there would indicate a turbo car, and is part of the VIN, not the chassis code.

Yeah, to me, upper adjustable arms make more sense than lower arms.

I would have kept it the same color myself. The only decent way to paint a car a completely different color, is to strip it down completely and do the interior, engine bay and jambs. I HATE seeing a supra with a nice paint job, then you open the hood and see a different color firewall. But, if...

Really? That's good, so now we know for sure it's the fan clutch. Oh yeah- I was gonna ask- HOW did you determine that the fan clutch is your problem?