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I love detailed info. :) The thermostat prevents oil from going to the cooler until the oil has warmed up correct, I'm curious to why you recommend it since I recall you saying(correct me if I'm wrong) that the oil doesn't take very long to heat up? You also said it's something I never want to...

You do not NEED a mhg but it won't hurt, the OEM gasket is great when torqued down properly. At minimum have the head checked for smoothness but having the block done as well is best. ARP studs are always a good idea. Oil pump and bearings should be replaced as well. If you can, do the valve...

You lead a sad existence.

do it now, don't delay

I smell failure...

Damn skippy.

You owe me a testicle.

Don't be jealous cuz he's not talking about you Moe.

Everyone has you blocked Jeffy.

Very true. ;)

Bhg, easy fix. Dunno how so many people screw it up. Let's loosen your head and see if yours blows. ;)

Yes jz's never break. :ugh2: I've never burnt coolant, destroyed bearings or broken a shift fork. So what exactly is your point?

That's why your turbos are still crappy right.

Maybe he's getting a real engine.

You and all your thinking. :p Correct me if I'm wrong but aren't the filters inline? So if I'm visualizing it correctly won't oil have to pass through both filters anyway? Like put the lower resistance filter first and then the higher one after. I may be off my rocker but it seems to make...

No surprise there, lol.

Jon:Some good things to think about. I'll look into the links. Ian: I mainly considered the dual setup since I have the option of using the two different filters. I do see what you're saying though.

You sure it's always a benefit?? lol

:nuts: Omg John you don't know what spongey spark is?? I'd like to know too....

I wanted to run the trasko and wix filters. I haven't decided on a cooler yet I don't think I need a huge one as I'm planning on making about ~400-450hp at the end of this. Still kinda hammering out details since I have plenty of time, lol. Any recommendations?