Search results

Yeah, from what I've read, re-torques usually cause BHG's rather than prevent them. You're better off to just let nature take its course and then when the HG finally does fail go with ARP head studs and a MHG, and make sure you get the block and head machined. -AM3

I said it is stuck on the input shaft of the trans, not in the crankshaft. -AM3

less than a day of work + cheap materials + roof scoop = this -AM3

Another new question: The old Pilot Bushing will not come off the input shaft of the trans. Is there some sort of special tool or mathod to remove it? Thanks -AM3

Yeah, I pretty much use RTV and Right Stuff interchangeably since not other option comes to mind besides Permatex or FIPG. -AM3

I'll have a pic up a little later. Thanks for the info on the valve covers, I checked the TSRM once and I must have missed that. And RTV will work for the oil pan right? Thanks. -AM3

Thanks for all that. I def don't trust cork gaskets, lol, so I was already leaning towards RTV (aka Right Stuff). I also have the valve cover gaskets already, they came in my rebuild kit. Hopefully, these are my last questions until I get it running. -AM3

1. I'm reassembling and my oil dipstick tube doesn't line up right with the tube that's in the block, it comes up about a half inch short. Any suggestions to fix this? 2. Oil pan gasket: I have a cork gasket that came in my kit. Would I be better off to go with FIPG/RTV? Or will the cork gasket...

I already looked through my crappy Haynes manual, the TSRM, as well as searching the forum, and I can't seem to find the torque specs for the following parts: -Engine mount brackets -AC compressor bracket -Power steering bracket -Transmission to engine block mounting brackets Are there...

New question: I don't have the ST for the pilot bushing. Can I tap it in with a socket and a hammer, or is there a better way to do it? -AM3

That was the plan. My question is wheter or not it will be easier to bolt the pressure plate on before or after the trans is on. -AM3

Yeah, I forgot to mention, the engine is out of the car right now, it was just rebuilt. Does that make things any different, or am I still better to do it the TSRM way? Its sounding like the TSRM way is probably the best method. -AM3

Ok, I did a search for R154 install advice and got nothing. Also, I have read the TSRM and its procedure for installing an R154 trans. My question is, is it possible to bolt the clutch to the flywheel and bolt the trans on like you would with a normal trans, or is there a reason why you can only...

Way ahead of you on that, but excellent advice, lol. I really appreciate all the help I'm getting from SM members on this project. -AM3

I found this thread when I searched for head torque with ARP studs. I currently have my head torqued to 75 ft/lbs, and my question is, should I go the extra 10 to 85 ft/lbs, or is 75 a safe value? I keep seeing both values pop up, and I'm thinking 75 would be best, but would like some input...

Thanks, I appreciate the help. I just want to make sure I get it done right the first time, I got a lot of time and money in this project. -AM3

So the RTV is normally covered by the headgasket as well? -AM3

Ok, so I have come to the next problem in my rebuild. I'm ready to install the head, and I know I'm supposed to put a small bead of RTV on the timing case to engine block joints. My question is, does the headgasket normally go over top of these beads of RTV, or are these spots only covered by...

Well, this is interesting. I have a 110K motor I took apart (which hadn't been touched previuosly), and there were no washers on the head bolts, and no washers on my other motor with the ARP head studs. So how does this work, the stud goes in, then the washers, and the nut I take it? Neither one...

I already have the gaskets, they came in the engine overhaul kit. -AM3