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yeah, from what i understand, most if not all piston MFR's dont have the facilities to do ceramic or powder coatings in-house. if anything, they have an agreement to send out their parts to another ceramic coating facility that has the resources to do such work to a certain level of quality...

she is most likely going to use a GReddy 4row style pipe route. both 3row and 4 row pipe routes end up coming out of the IC, making the big "U" under the headlight, goin inside the engine bay and making another 90* to go up to the TB, then maybe an 80* to meet the TB. the hot pipe on a 4row...

the MK3 simply isnt friendly to being lowered excessive amounts. in order to get the desired look, you have to lower it alot. MKIV's can appear to be lowered significantly but this is because the body overhanges the floor pan and rails moreso than the MK3. the MK3 is SHORTER from rocker panel to...

ay yo... those are some nice yellow calipers... ricer :biglaugh: keep up the good work though ;)

the problem is that the runout or TV in the rotor is too much. you can feel a varation as small as 0.001", considering you said there was 0.005" of runout, the problem is in the rotor or that something is stuck between the rotor and the hub. from stoptech.com

well, good, im going to push the limits with a 5" then ;) bolt on 4" exhausts are going to take away the "wow" factor when Everyone starts showing up w/ 4" HPF kits that looks pretty damn clean though, nice straightforward installation. its not too gaudy or ghetto. just right. itd be...

dont forget that there is a hose full of unknown octane fuel left at the pump from the previous patron. so when you fill up on your Sunoco Ultra94 (thanks mom!), you could very likely be getting 87 octane in that hose contaminating your fuel. anyways, good work with that. i suspect race gas...

i could put you intouch with a guy who sells 2.5" drawn over mandrel U-bends for about $13 each, plus shipping. i would recommend that you start cutting the Ubends and having someone weld them for a Superiour product (Shit, i just typed that like a freakin canadien) anywho, try that out. i would...

ill be the first to say it "that shit'll buff out" time for some CP pistons, pauter rods and cryo-treatment ;) dont forget micropolishing the crank, resizing the rod ends and ARP hardware. also, id look to Swaintech for some ceramic coating for the crowns. i still have you beat ;) you...

it could be the antenna that isnt bolted down correctly, or a tems ecu thats not bolted down right, or soemthing on the gas filler neck or something under the rear corner of the car. take off the interior panel back there and see f you can find anythng back in there.

yeah, 1J (thats right i said ONE Jay!) has the right idea. the full faced discs which typically are geared towads stock and lower HP setups engage smoothly because of the use of the marcell spring. it slows the engagment and reduces the shock. but the puck types obviously have no springs...

the only other "bolt-On" turbos are from SP and Supra sport. the other Turbos that fit from toyota are from the 3SGTE and VVti 1JZGTE engines... youre pretty much limted to "small" size turbos when retaining a stock manifold... you need something aftermarket or an adaptor plate to run Mid...

Hey Suze...Gold pearl yellow will look like poo... you need competition yellow mica, its soo hott. why is the turbo so small, did you shrink it in the wash? keep up the good work, and let me know if you have any questions that Rob or john or whatever his name is, cant answer. ;) Much...

shitty pics from my camera phone; a few pics i took upon arriving at the drag event at Orlando speedway, which ended early due to a downpour Photo Album slideshow

all star/quests were the G54B 2.6 liter SOHC TBI motors. only the later ones were intercooled. the intercoolers are "upgrades" for DSM's with the 4G63 and non-intercooled cars. the starion fmic is probably THE single most worthless intercooler to be used as a FMIC. people assume they are...

hey hal. yeah, the egg-shaped bit and the cylindrical bit w/ a round tip are my favorite grinding bits. i usually am pretty good w/ keeping the grinding bit from nicking the valve seat itself... its the collet of the grinder that typically sneaks up and puts a scuff in the seat. thats what...

so that ridge under the valve seat, is that PART of the valve seat or is it a ridge that is part of the valve bowl itself? i would cut the valve seat and blend the bowl essentially. im just worried about nicking the valve seat margin where the valve actually seals against it. i would also...

just wondering... my friend had an incident and his SP74 is slightly damaged and hes kinda desperate for a turbo and he wants my T88. he has RPS manifold, the SP74 and turbonetics race gate. the position that the RPS unit places the WG causes the WG pressure hose to be subjected to copious...

i think that the meat behind the valve seats should be opend up a little bit. add some more volume and smooth the radius in the throats. also, itd probably help to smooth out the roof of the port as well as the valve guide. i think that a slight recess should be added to the sides of the port...

wow, nicely done 1J! thats a great load off me mind. so right now, theres no chance of getting a crosscut of the head right at the center of the port/valve opening? that helps alot, but id also like to see how much room there is at the valve bowl behind the valve.