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Sooooooo, it's a true supra if it has a chevrolet transmission and a ford rearend, but not a 2j..........:sarcasm: You Canadians crack me up............:biglaugh: Congrats on the super clean and fast MKIII. It really needs a 350 in it to be considered a true supra though.........:biglaugh:

I replaced my wife's ecu with mine and it didn't help anything. I still haven't tried the grounds and I haven't moved the knock sensor to where it is suppose to be. I've basically just parked her car until I muster up the "want to" to go out and work on it. I've had more important things to do...

AARRGGGHHHH!!!!!!!!!!! How many more times do I have to see this car?.......................:rant2: :biglaugh:

Good job Eathan. Looks like you got a lot done while doing it by yourself. I don't work by myself too good. My ADD kicks in and I start losing focus. I love the Anthacite on the MKIV's, but I like the grey on the MKIII's. I'm sure the anthracite will look good though. If there is no shaft...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=MT&P=4

One word keeps coming to mind......................Kwnate.............:biglaugh:

That's a good looking assembly there Mark..........:love: 7m......you probably won't find a good FFIM that is cheap, but good luck either way.

a six speed transmission will cost you about three grand.

Long block means it comes with everything on it, all accessories etc. short block is only the block with internals, ie. pistons, rings, crank......etc.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91551

I have a built head with Zazzn's cams and upgraded springs and retainers and I only rev to 7300rpm...............I'm such a pussy!!!!!!! Definately buy some cams if you have the money.

It couldn't hurt to check them. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx

You can get the longer waterneck tube on here. Look in the jz parts for sale section. No welding to do unless you have to modify your downpipe. There are a few threads in the jz section that covers this. Good luck.

150 is fine. You must have a problem that I don't know about or you wouldn't be doing a compression test. If they're all close to 150 then your problem is somewhere else. Let us know the outcome.

Great job so far Mark. I wish you lived closer so I could help you out. I'm one of the best flashlight holders in the world.

You should have run him from a roll.............I love my car, but I'm not racing one from a dig unless we're racing to 140mph.

Ive read where some people have welded and redrilled the block or head, but it isn't necessary. I've ran mine like that for over a year now and it never runs hot. I wouldn't bother doing it if I were you.

I hate black wheels........Period!!!!!!!! unless it's on a lowered medium blue metallic, rhd, 1jz powered MKIII.

Put your stock ecu in there and see what it does. If it works fine then there's something wrong with your Stealth ECU. If it doesn't work right with the old ecu in there, make sure you don't have any boost leaks. Check and double check all of your clamps and make sure none of your couplings...

Good luck with basic trainig and I wish you the best. Make sure you're back in town for next years meet if you can. Be safe.