If money is tight, I'd try to buy a used Weller on EBay. These are superior irons to anything you will get at RS. There is a Weller WTCPS going for $15 right now, and lots of others in the $30 range. Parts and new tips can be bought at many places like Digikey.
Search for Weller Soldering...
Your A/F's are 12.4:1 and 12.5:1 respectively. Massively rich and (as stated before) not in closed loop.
As always, start with the easy stuff. ECU codes and engine temp need to be verified. Could be as simple as a stuck thermostat keeping the engine cold.
As far as I can tell, there is no "fuel map" per se. The ECU computes the VE of the engine from RPM and AFM, and applies some small temp corrections and fuel trims to compute the fuel duration. It does not need a large 3D table to do this, because the AFM provides enough data to do the job...
Jon Sole and I have descrambled the Techtom data and can now compare directly the differences between a Techtom ECU and the stock ECU. A quick glance shows that there is not a whole lot changed. I'll post up more data on this as we dig into the GTE code.
The scrambling techniques is pretty...
There are no ECU codes related only to an automatic. I assume you have a code 51 which is most of the time due to a bad TPS idle switch and very rarely due to the A/C being on or the auto NSW failing. Since you can start the car, my guess is the NSW has been correctly bypassed and is not the...
I do power amp design for a living, so don't bother explaining. You need to know breakdown voltage limits since the primary failure is going to be the flyback voltage spike when the current collapses. I highly doubt they are thermally limited. Just keep the charge current at or below stock...
An air leak in the accordion tube will not cause it to run rich, nor a marginal cooling system. You guys need to think a little harder.
It is supposed to be running closed loop during the smog test cycle anyway. Is it?
Jdub suggested getting the codes. I already told you that a bad ECU temp...
Yes, that's a good point. The diaphragm should have equal pressure on both sides. Also, there are different Bosch BOVs. What is the part number written on it. Should be something like 0280142110 or 0280142114. The one ending in 103 holds less boost.
That won't tell you if you're stressing it from a voltage standpoint.
You need to capture the waveform at the device and compare it to the device ratings. Anything else is just mickey mouse.
Assuming you want to compute the mean time to failure, you want the junction temperature of the power devices. The case temp won't really tell you anything about MTTF unless you have a model from device junction to case. I got to agree with Grim, what's the point of this.
The Ishii post says it all. I was able to hook a 2000 Tundra head unit to the original 90 under seat amp by making a conversion cable.
Just buy dead radios on Ebay with the connectors you need and then solder together the frankenstein cable to interface between the two. Ishii's post gives...
I would not load either the IG2 or MREL lines at all. Both are mission critical and connected to sensitive circuits in the ECU. I would also stay away from the B+ circuit as well due its its mission critical role.
Use the GAUGE cct for any extra instrumentation that needs to be controlled by...
It is okay to jump IGSW to MREL externally. It is already jumpered internally so won't do any harm. AVoid connecting anything else other than IGSW to MREL though, as the micro in the ECU can route power from BAT to MREL as needed to reset the ISC, and if you are not careful with what you...
My recollection is that MREL is directly connected to IGSW inside the ECU. So your problem is most likely with the IG2 circuit from the ignition switch through the IGN fuse and then to the IGSW input on the ECU. Most likely problem area I would think is the ignition switch itself.
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