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skip the elbow. Driftmotion has a complete elbow eliminating downpipe for a great price. I am assuming you already did all basic maintenance and looked over this mechanics work? for interior, i found a mint grey set at my local yard so i would start there.

i think it may be due to the gasket im using. its cut out a little more in some sections

i have the Driftmotion / ebay DP. only issue is it needed to be grinded down a few mm for the gasket to match perfect.

i drive on SS on full soft and the car still hops over bumps on occasion. if making a fast turn and the road is slightly uneven, a bump will cause it to hop back and forth pretty bad. i think the springs might to too stiff or it might not be 100% dialed in. The stiffness that everyone whats is...

lag monster

a phone book or your fancy phone? we have an electronic store where i live. radio shack wont have it though. you can reuse the connector.

Group A race cars had no oil squirter's btw. if you have a donor car all you need is an oil line kit for a GE block. you seem to think before you do something to a motor, which is good. your motor is rebuilt and even if its not forged your golden for 500+ hp. 7M engine failure is mostly caused...

only ground one end. i think used RG58 singal strange.

junk yard. i just soldered to it. i went to the shop where my spare GE was and got a measurement of about 7 1/2 to 8''

it has been proven that the stock pump tube is not a major point of restriction in a 7M oiling system.

i have two 8' cables with knock sensors on each end ready to go. the 2 spots on the harness that are between the injector clips has the 2 original brown knock sensor wires. you can see them in the pictures. what is the measurement between that and the connector?

The sensors are there for a reason. not hooking them up is going to cause limp mode and a ton of other problems.

On the harness im cleaning up both knock sensor wire's are cut . there is about 4'' left on each wire coming from the harness. I bought coax cable and will have it exiting in the original spots. i would like to know how much wire i should leave. :1zhelp:

That would be me lol i did a google map search and was surprised at the amount of vacuum forming businesses found.

its not flat. the OEM is vacuum formed.

skidplate damage is most always cause by the driver carelessness . people come to the shop all the time asking to look at it cause " its making a scraping noise" after they go over a curb, rock, or bottom out the car out.

sorry, so many idea's running through my mind haha.

edit: 2 wires are knocks. still wondering about that cut plug. i will be going to the yard this week to find one.

^^^ there are allot of fail-safe's built in that standalone's just dont offer.i did not take that into account. For the average 7M owner, its just not nessesary. BTW, have you been in a 350hp 7M? You might stop and say WTF was i thinking with just upping the boost with a better exhaust.

piggy backs are only a "partial" tune. I have heard of 80+ hp gains just from switching to standalone and not to mention a more meaty powerband. BUT, your better off with a piggy for your power goals