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Sounds like a bad rebuild or he used fipg on the oil flange...

stock bore is 83mm... .040" is 84mm my personal prefference. 85 = .080" 86 = 2jz = same bore spacing= doable with new sleeves.

Jake, which Bolt holes are you refering to? Every oil fastener I can think of is a stud with nuts save the 17mm banjo...

Figured. Gimme a sec.

Steve, that's the Exducer, no? Inducer shoulc be 76-88 depending on which 42R you have... Edit. Hi Duane ;)

Wait, you have the stock elbow? And you said you could compress the actuator, with it still hooked to the gate? With the actuator hooked to the gate, pushing the actuator towards the rear of the car you open the gate with no restriction until it hits your stock elbow, then it would compress...

Throw it away. If you want to tweak Fuel cut, remove the al pulg over the stock AFM screw and back it out until you don't hit FC at your desired boost. Jon, honestly, who runs an aftermarket wastegate with a stock turbo?;)

CSI switch.. If you pull the T-stat cover, you may be able to Vise-grip the sucker out from the inside,,, or drill it out. Either way it won't be fun. Getting a new switch shouldn't be too bad though.

I've got a few with weldable wastegate cracks with clean volutes, let me know, just pay for shipping.

The reason they are phillips screws is so you CAN'T over tighten them... I just check to make sure they are tight any time I'm working around the area, and we've never had a leaky cover...

OOH, check for a slipped crank pully. It could be that your timing reads fine, but it's fubarred from a slipped pully... Fuel pressure guage while the problem is happening...

The reason I disagree with this method is that until the rings seat, you don't want to boost the engine. The ideal way to break in a gte would be to remove the turbo and rail the piss out of it as soon as it's warm. After a few heat cycles, 100 miles or so, put a turbo on it and have fun. I...

If it's DIRT cheap, buy it anyway ;)

Check your dynamic fuel pressure.

Loki, it revs fine in neutral? My guess would be a huge crack in your IC plumbing...

The expand and contract action of the turbo will propogate that crack to the outside of the snail very quickly. His point is not to waiste monye coating a housing that will crack through in a very short period of time.

Just a word, That hardline is easily kinked, consider replacing it with an FPD removal kit from SS or the like...

I use straight 30 weight, not for use on vehicles manufactured after 1836 stuff for the initial warm up and first 100 miles.

You have it set to continuity?

All of that is nice... I really need to get a TP filter put in. JJ, can you PM me your email addy again?